Upgrading to a powerful system (1500+ watts)

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by eazy, Jul 9, 2007.

  1. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    delete post
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2007
  2. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    I can do 2 3" flared ports and get 4 cubes. The 3" flared ports have a diameter of 6.25" at the flare, so that's 30.68 sq. inches of port per tube.... so 61.35 sq. inches of port... divided by 4 cubes gives me 15.34 sq. inches of port per cube. That's perfect. And if I did my math right two 3" flared ports take up around .23 cubes if they're 8" long.
     
  3. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    But back to the point at hand... would you do 4 cubes @33Hz over 3.25 cubes @33Hz?
     
  4. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    two 3 inch round ports are not enough...doesn't matter how big the flare is...the port area is still two 3 inch round ports

    I'd do atleast two 4 inch round ports

    Well depends one how much power you are gonna be putting to it

    Try firing the sub back and the port to the drivers side either with one 6 inch round or two 4 inch round ports
     
  5. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    I'm going to put 1000-1100 watts to it. I didn't realize the port area was the same even though it was flared... back to the drawing board.
     
  6. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    lol...back to the drawing board indeed

    flares only help to smooth out the air flow and reduce port noise...they dont necessarily add port area
     
  7. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    I took my two 400.1's and subs out.

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    Okay. As of right now the new box's outer dimensions will be 39" wide, 14" deep, and 21" tall. The box in the picture is 39" wide, 14" deep, and 14" tall... so basically picture that box but 7" taller.

    I'm going to stand the spare tire up behind the box. My old setup was very impractical and had I ever gotten a flat I would have had a spare and no way to get it without another person to help me get the box out.

    Like I said, the depth of the new box will be the same, does that look like sufficient space in between the sub and the back wall?
     
  8. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    [​IMG]
    (21" tall)

    3.75 cubes @33Hz... port is 2.5"x19.5"x25" long... I have .13 cubes left over I need to fill with bracing. How do you guys think I should brace it?
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2007
  9. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay if I use threaded rods I can do 3.9 cubes @ 33Hz.
     
  10. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    threaded rods are fugly as hell...I'd rather use dowel rod or a broom stick handle
     
  11. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    A guy on termpro said I don't need the double baffle. What do you think?
     
  12. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    depends on how big the baffle is...I'd say do it. I won't hurt...just make the box stronger
     
  13. mrmizcue

    mrmizcue Full Member

    i would double the baffel and brace it too...that is a long box
     
  14. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    [​IMG]
    What do you think?
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2007
  15. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Looks good to me...do you really want to see some big bolts next to your sub??

    some simple 5 inch wide strips of MDF will be much stronger than the all thread and cost less anyway

    Unless you hide the bolts between the double baffle???
     
  16. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well as you can see, I'm at 3.9916 cubes right now, so if I did MDF instead of the threaded rods, I'd have to eliminate the 2x4's. I had planned on just having the bolts showing, I thought it might look cool with an industrial sort of look... but that's an idea cutting holes in the outer baffle and having the nuts recessed.
     
  17. G3n3R@1

    G3n3R@1 Full Member

    that doesn't sound like a bad idea, make it look like rivets or something.