Passive X-overs

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by TheViking, Oct 1, 2006.

  1. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    I'll wait on powering up the 6x9s till later on.All the wireing is there and would only take me 5 install the vulcan.
  2. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    lol still a little hard to understand but hell...its Viking's problem cuz hes the Passive god here haha
  3. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    how is that hard?the sub is on its own amp 100hz low pass.the 6x9s on another 200hz hi pass,and the front doors and dash on a 4 ch.dash at 175hz hipass with a 200hz hipass bassblocker.and the doors on the low out 175hz lowpass from the same 4ch amp running the front speakers.the low pass on the doors is controled via a remote vol control normaly used for a sub woofer.only i use it to control the bass out put from the doors.some music needs more control than others(midbass wise).i know i keep repeating myself and im sorry. i just need the passives for the dash and 6x9s when i rewire for the new sounds good now ,but i know it can be better.And about the doors.Soon im going to put in some JL 6.5 subs.that way i can really rock out.
  4. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    this might help you in your grammer!!!!

    LOL!!!!!! just given u **** man!!!!!!!!!!

    will try and finish up my "essay" on passives the next day or two f I am lucky, wood cuttin season is here and winter is just rounfd the corner!!!!!!!!!
  5. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    LOL.what do you think of bassblockers?i found a pair on ebay.600hz at 4ohms.they cost 6.99 with 1.87 s/h.
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2006
  6. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    ok i was looking around some more,and on parts express i found some FMODS.they are 25 a pair. 600hz hi pass.

    what would the diffrence be from the bass blockers and the FMODS?
  7. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Arent those fmods the little pasive x=over rca things????? If so, they suck dog ass. Bass blockers are ok, they are nothing more than a cap however, and only 6 dB/oct roll off, could probably find the right value cap elsewhre cheaper and get the same performance... Or just use the link i gave yall to figure out how to build a 12 dB x-over.......
  8. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    thank you sir.
    i will use the link then.hmmm... do i need to solder those if i builed?
  9. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Soldering is a topic on the construction of them that i never thought about!!!! But yes!!! solder is the BEST way to go....crimp connectors kind of work, but are unrelibale for the small gauge solid wire, and i do not reccommend it......actually, dont use crimp connections.....PERIOD, you will thank me for telling you that!!!!

    I always soldered up the crossovers, run some 18 or 16 gauge speaker wire off each end for the connections to the speaker/amp wiring ( about 12-24 inches per end). Once tested and performace has been verified, I always used some large diameter heat shrink to seal them up inside. If not heat shrink, wrap them up in close cell foam or similiar and tape them up good, be sure nothing shorts out inside the x-over though!!!
  10. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    i just dug out an old bass cd" BASS MEKANIK"and it has a test section for bass 10hz to 100hz.

    the only set of speakers that need help are the 4x6 plates.
    I think im going to get the bass blockers for now. the 600hz.models.

    i would really like to upgrade my whole front stage with a true 3 way component set up in the future.maybe move the plates to the rear to replace the 6x9s.

    Maybe a 6.5 in sub in the doors,and a nice 4in component set in the dash.
  11. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    I used to have that CD years ago!!!!!!!! was a great demo CD for subs!!!! The "brothers" really dug it!!!
  12. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    LOL.yeah it really moves my 10in like i was saying before ,when it cools down alot more here.i'm going to take ALL my interier out to rewire it,and do some upgrades. (i.e wires,speakers
  13. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member


    I will get around to finishinf this damned thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Just been busy nights and days, cutting firewood, rebuilding a buddies John Deere B and trying to not get busted hunting for white tail out of season...........J/K on the last one!!!!!!!!!

    Oh, and the damned well needs a new pressure tank, i hate calcium deposties and the corrosion it creates...... Its only money.......right????????
  14. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    Well like i posted.i just GUTTED my far i got the seats out.that was a pain,had to go to the store for a deep 3/4 socket for the back seat. so i had to put in just the drivers seat.

    man is it dirty under those seats.tommorow i'll vac then rewire.

    i bought new rca's and a new main under hood fuse.

    now i just have to check and re check ALL the wires.i'll be pulling them out and rerunning them further under the seats. i may have pinched somthing by the door jam.

    untill tommorow.
  15. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    good day all.toke me 30 mins to vac and clean the back seat area looks like my niece has been spilling soda back i have to break out the carpet biggy was gonna do it anyways.

    i now have to go to lowes with my sis.she has to return the unused tiles she bought when we redid our moms bathroom.

    she leaves to go back to san diego.she just came home for 2 weeks from they want to send her to japan for 2years.that gives her just enough time to go home and relax for like a few months then BAM another big move.

    oh well back to the suject.the rewire of the truck.
    till later.
  16. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    **** im ****ed.i replaced the main biggy.i rewired the whole truck,and replaced my rca's with new i have no power to the cap has a voltage meter on it and its getting 14+ volts but my amps will not turn on.

    i'm going to buy a volt/ohm meter tomorrow.i need one any ways. i will be testing my set up to see what went wrong.

    any suggestions?maybe i missed something.who knows.
    oh forgot to mention i jumped the main power to the remote and nothing so i know its the main power.

    and VIKING i will be removeing the cap tomorrow.when i put in the new amp my lights started to dim on the heavy bass notes so its not doing a thing for me.i dont know about the "pluging it to the wall" thing just yet i might be able to unload it on someone at work.
  17. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    big three?
  18. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ha, i did plug one into a wall one time basically, when i was a kid i found a cap probably .5 farad, wasn't sure what it was but i cut a lampcord and hooked her up and a few seconds later a lightbulb that was on in the ceiling exploded:mellow:
  19. darryle

    darryle Full Member

    In my left hand I have a 6.5 canton mid base driver,in my right hand I have a an emit tweeter,both vintage ,both 3.2 ohm.Yesterday I installed a Alpine 9853 in my sons car ,1996 intregra ,fronts are 5.25 and 1 " tweets.I want to use the cantons and emits in the rear for fill.What would reccommend for x-over points?,budget stereo deck power only,We will be installing a 6th order bandpass and amp
  20. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Werent the emits an infinity home speaker? the little square or rectangular flat panel wanna be electrostatic but not really things?

    Canton, WOW! there is a name i havent heard in a while!!!!!

    Might think about xing over the tweeters on the high side, somewhere around 5kHz at 12 dB/oct. Might let the cantons naturally roll of with out any low pass on the high side of it. Also would do some critical listening and determine whether or not the tweeters need quieted down a touch so as not to detract from the front stage.