Orion HCCA 2100 Competition Amplifier

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by electrolytic, Apr 5, 2007.

  1. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ok, i might do that, i don't trust it, it was an aftermarket alternator and the first one they delivered a puff of smoke came out of it but it was still charging, this is the second one and it did some funny things too when it was first installed.

    ya pedro i might check out that kaption audio tommorow, they have a dealer like ten minutes from me. They are all rated 600w 10" 12" 15" they look pretty serious, have you tried them or heard them?


    http://www.kaptionaudio.com/
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2007
  2. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    one more option.. series/parallel wiring
     

    Attached Files:

  3. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member




    That would work
     
  4. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    hey, viking how about those clipping lights, are they just 12 volt leds, would i need to wire each one, i think there is three of them, and would wiring a second set change the sensitivity of them? I would like that in my dash above my deck.
     
  5. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    LED's pull almost no current...you could add on more if you want I'm sure
     
  6. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    The chick i bought the amp from sent me this message in reply to my message that i left her feedback and thanks for the amp. Why did i doubt you Viking lol about the gold plate.

    Hehe, okay, enjoy the amp then :)
    She's not the cleanest amp in the world, but shes powerful. Enjoy the amp.

    P.S. If you happen to blow the amp fuses up somehow, theres fuses inside the amp, the bottom thing slides out, its a bitch, but it's there for a reason. I don't think amps like these had them, it seems custom. But its good non the less. There should be two 60 or 80's I don't remember what. I think it's 80s. I had to change the fuse once because the fuses were old (The gold plates separated on the glass fuse.) The amp still powered, the light was on, but no sound. It was just a that blast fuse. It freaked me out. But I wanted to relay that to you too, so you don't have the same freakout like I did. :p
     
  7. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    The 3 led's on the end are a red one for power and a left and right clipping indictor. You could solder (carefully) to the PCB and run a few leads to the front to integrate some additional clipping LEDS.......not an issue.


    As for the fuses...............THEY WERE NOT ORIGINALLY 60 or 80 AMP!!!!!!!!

    The circuit breaker that come with the 2100 and the 2250SX were both 50 amp breakers! i Remeber that, and still have some of them!!! The internal fuses were 30 amp...each. If they were sticking 60 or 80 amp fuses in them and blowing them, or melting the solder in them.....the amp has been abused!!!!
     
  8. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ya she's a dirty little whore, but she's my dirty little whore and i love her until the end!!

    I'm going to pull everything out again and i will put two 30 amp silver fuses, i was just thinking about that today why the 80 amp fuse blew up by my battery and not at the amp. That's why!!

    I've had it hooked up to one 100 watt or so 6 ohm ghetto blaster speaker for 3 days now and no frying!! wohooo, and it's pumping lol within reason. I know this amp now and what to listen for. I'll take frying that sub as a cheap lesson learned! And the other orion amp, pioneer amp, 2 bazooka amps, about 6 sets of infinitys...the list goes on

    What is this other external 50 amp breaker? I didn't get one with the amp, only the internal fuses and speaker plug.

    Oh ya i didn't fry the other orion LOL oh well..I tried!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 15, 2007
  9. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Essentially, the breaker was suppled as Original equipment with the amp. It was for mounting up by the battery...No big deal if you dont have it.
     
  10. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ok, maybe i should put 2 60 amp fuses, i don't want to be pulling the cover off changing fuses all the time, i hear these amps can pull 160 amps, i will be pushing 900 watts rms.
     
  11. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Let me do some digging around, i MAY be wrong on the 30 amp ratings....
     
  12. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ok thanks! any info you find please post it, i have searched many hours with little returns. Maybe i'll try emailing orion for a manual.
     
  13. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

  14. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    holy crap! how the hell did you find it so fast lol. Sweeeeeet Thanks!!!
     
  15. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    I Am A Car Audio God!!!!!!!!!!
     
  16. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    I think everyone here must BOW to the AUDIO GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  17. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    And.. a round of applause for Audio God Junior - AZN haha
     
  18. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    Sweet!! i have an aftermarket speaker wire plug harness and both sets of wires are the same color, but i think i can figure out which is left and right.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Mono is left positive (orange) and right negative (yellow/black)....If need be, look at the wiring on the board going to the plug in the chassis....they are the proper colors...blue is of course...turn on!


    Also, fuse the leads as reccomended..will save some woofers if you get carried away!!!! A fuse is a helluva lot cheaper than a speaker!!!! i think they sere 7 or 8 amp fuses.....They fuses went on the aforementioned leads
     
  20. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    cool, thanks. one last question about this lol, the internal fuses? Am i safe to put at least 40, 50 or 60 amp fuses in to replace what's in there now?