Most expensive car washer /waxer..

Discussion in 'Off Topic Discussion' started by JoeAudio26, Mar 18, 2007.

  1. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    I did a 5 step detail on my Expedition and it took me 5 hours to do that. A usual exterior detailing is only 3 steps. And by the way, you really don't have to clay bar a car if you plan on compounding it. The compund will clean the paint surface even better than a clay bar would.
     
  2. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    Pedro, I'll do your whole truck Interior detailing, exterior detailing and engine detailing for $120!!! I'll even polish your rims for free! Only catch is you have to bring it over to the Philippines for me to do it. LOL
    Seriously though, labor is very cheap here so that is the going rate here.
     
  3. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    ok so the mothers is safe for uncoated rims?
     
  4. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    also asked at another local car wash and they want 170 for a whole detail.shampoo interior and all.now thats just too much to spend i think.
     
  5. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    pedro, mothers is totally safe for your uncoated rims. Trust me on that. I've used it on many occasions with no problem at all.
     
  6. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    $170 for interior exterior and engine? There is a lot of labor involved in detailing though. You have to be a real picky car owner though to appreciate engine detaling.
     
  7. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    You really have to ask what they will do with the exterior though. How many buffing steps will they do to your truck. Always ask what products they will use on your truck and make it a point to make sure if they accidentally take some paint off from buffing, if they will spend for the repair. You can't just trust any one to buff your truck. it's a technique that you can't learn overnight.
     
  8. DREAMZmustang

    DREAMZmustang Full Member

    yea i saw that place before, i mean wtf, who charges that high?? the most i ever charged was $175 for a complete detail
     
  9. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    also try a bucket:lol:
     
  10. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    ok then.thanks.

    1 more.what can i use wax wise on some spots were it looks like the previous owner hit it with a green scrubby.
    it's not a lite swirl mark.it's big one.any product out there that can hide that kind of blemish?

    can show you a pic.if you want


    edit.i cant get a pic cause whatever wax was used covered the swirl marks.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2007
  11. DREAMZmustang

    DREAMZmustang Full Member

    yea black is the worse to detail
     
  12. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    Just post a picture of it. I'd have to see how bad it is to know what to do with it.
     
  13. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    Black is the most challanging to detail. Everytime we get a black car in for detailing we love it. It is hard to work out all the small surface sratches out but it's a great feeling once you finish it.

    We're doing a maroon BMW now. The owner let his dogs walk all over the car so you can imagine how bad it is. What makes it even worse is that it's been repainted and it wasn't a very good job. You can actually see sanding marks under the clearcoat. Obviously, the car wasn't preped properly.
     
  14. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    well i would show you a pic,but the wax that was used covered it up fairly well.i'm sure by next week it will show through again.
     
  15. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    Pedro, to get the swirl marks out you may want to try Mothers sealer and glaze.
    I only use mothers and Mark V so i may be biased. But the stuff works well, i've tried meguiars but i'm happier with the results of mothers.
     

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  16. JoeAudio26

    JoeAudio26 Full Member

    Sorry, but your wrong, clay bar and compound do different things, compound is good for removing scratches, and light oxidation, Scratch X does the same thing.

    Clay, Removes above surface contaminants and restoring a smooth surface to your paint finish...
     
  17. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    I do recommend clay if you will only do a 2 step with a rotary buffer. But i can get the paint surface smooth again without the use of a claybar without grounding in the fallout. If i go to 3, 4 or 5 steps with a rotary buffer the paint surface will be very smooth. I'm about to go to my shop now, i'll be posting some pics of the BMW i'm doing now. I didn't use a claybar, I just did a 4 step on it, half of the hood is done and the other half is not. You can see the difference.
     
  18. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    I do use a claybar almost every chance i get, It does make the work a lot easier. i won't argue that, it's just my detailer isn't a big fan of it. I guess he likes the challenge. LOL
     
  19. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    can you explain all the steps in a good wax job.my paint is not in the best of conditions,but with a wax it looks fine.

    other than a full on repaint.how can i keep it looking its best?
     
  20. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    Well i guess the easiest way to go about it would be just go out and buy the 3 phases of mothers or any other brand you like. I assume that your paint still gives a decent shine so this would probably be the best way to do it yourself without having to pay a detailer $$$. But it will take some time but the results are great!

    Phase 1
    California Gold Clay Bar
    California Gold Pre-Wax Cleaner

    Simply put, this cleaner removes oxidized paint, old wax buildup and other contaminants, cleaning and shining your paint.

    Phase 2
    California Gold Sealer & Glaze

    Sealer & Glaze fills and hides minor swirls and defects, minimizing visual imperfections.

    Phase 3
    Go with Mothers synwax.

    I like this stuff over the regular carnauba wax, it gives a real glassy shine and its very easy to apply and remove. Even if you hit the black plastics, it can be removed with one wipe. No need for continuous buffing.

    You should can do this all by hand if you don't have an orbital or rotary buffer.

    After you have done all of this maintaining it wont be so hard. every couple of months just repeat steps 2 and 3. keep in mind though, paint jobs can be brought back to life. You say that your paint doesn't look so great but you'll be amazed at what this stuff can do. I'm only using mothers as my example just cuz that's what i use. There are a lot of great stuff out on the market in the U.S. I just don't have much of a choice here, it's either megs or mothers here.

    Always use microfiber towels.