Yep, my ol work/play truck has some issues, dammit!!!! its an old 1975 Dodge Powerwagon (W100) with a 318 2 BL and 727, full time 4WD and i love the ol gal!!! but she is giving me some fits beins how winter is coming up and its getting cooler.... About a year or so ago, it started to run rough and not idle for crap, wouldnt hold what seemd to be a good mixture seting. I rebuilt the carb on it and reset the floats, then installed a manual choke on it due to the original auto choke being a little bit "not right"..... It improved it slightly, but no where near how it should run..... I always have to run the engine on partial choke, and even then, have to manually vary it depending on the engine load. Example, runs great going down the road at 60, floor it to pass and it begins to load up and go rich. lean out the choke and tons of power. finish the pass and drop back to 60, then have to give her a little choke to run smooth and right..... I have installed a higher temp thermostat (195 if I remeber right) it helped some. Timing is good by the light, and the ignition is strong. I know its a fuel issue, just cant seem to ever get it dialed in right. The carb has adjustable needle rods for the main jets if I remember right. could they be off???? I am not sure....... Whaddy think guys?
What carb you runnning, If I remember right the Dodges should be running the Carter afb. and it should be running a 4 bbl for the trucks.
ok I reread your post and you stated its a 2 bbl, did it come from the factory with a 2 bbl. What other mods have been done?
Its a 2 bbl, crap dont remeber what make it is!!!!! No engine mods at all, all stock. the only real difference is that I removed the exhaust from the y-pipe behind the engine on back (kept getting banged up on trails). this was done after the probelm started, so i know thats not an issue......
Did you replace the jets when you rebuilt it? You might try going down a size. But the first thing that comes to mind is the ignition may be weak because you state that it bogs and runs rich while trying to pass. 1975 should be HEI. How did you measure the output of the ignition?? Not to sure about Chrysler but Ford and GM put about 25000 to 35000 volts stock. Aftermarket, (Accel, MSD, Pertronix) Will put out about 50000 volts. Have you ever put it in a dark garage and run the engine and looked closely at the plug wires, do you see any arching or any type of light show?? Have you tried hooking up the electric choke, it should have worked ok after you rebuilt it. I rebuilt my quadraflush on my Nova and it still ran like shyte. I then bought a new quad and still ran like doodoo. So I forked out the big $$ (225) for a new Edelbrock 1405 and it runs sooooo much better. Its night and day. My carb lived for 30 years and 800,000 miles so it lived a good and long life. The Edelbrock carbs run great right out the box (no tuning) and you can set it up for manual or electric choke. I dont have any choke set up because im in southern california and it never gets below 40 so no biggie. Try setting up the electric choke on yours, check all of your springs, make sure they have the proper tension. Also make sure you have your stove pipe connected, its the pipe that goes from your exhaust manifold to your air cleaner, that way your carb will get warm air that comes off of the manifold. Not sure what your thermostat has to do with your carb since they function off of air temp, unless your trying to warm the engine up faster to get hotter air temps. Like you always say its kind of hard to diagnose without it being in my shop.
once the engine is fully warm you should have the choke fully open, I think you are using the choke to mask another problem. Is there a spring that determines how fast the butterflies open and close??On Hollys there is but on your carb You will have to look, that could be your problem. If that spring is weak it wont open and close the butterflies properly which will make you need to adjust it with the choke. Sorry im rambling ,im on like 16 Coronas about now. Of course your carb may be totally differant than what ive worked on but im just trying to give you some ideas of where to look.
First thing I would be looking at is where the pirate air is coming from. Propane, or alternate fuel type stuff around the manifold runners, base plate of the carb, such like that. EGR doing what it is supposed to be?
Good ideas fellas!! The ignition system is OK, no bad wires and the likes. The "stove pipe" or preheater hose is non-existant on this truck, that might be a good thing to get back on it!!!! never even thought of that. All the jetting and carb setting seem to be where they need to be, I will have to check them out again however to be sure, all with a complete once oveer of the carb. Throttle tune, i assume you mean to spray some wd-40 or the likes around the intake gaskets/carb gaskets and the lkes to check for a vaccuum leak, Thats an ol trick i plum forgot about...good idea I will go through some of it this week and try to diagnose it with what yall have spoke of. Thanks for the ideas!
He said the timing was good....but the plugs dunno Viking...have you tried adding a 20 farad cap inline with with spark plug wire?? The deviations of the rpms normally causes the stock distributor's flux capacitor to blow
THE WHALE PENIS WAS MY IDEA ORIGINALLY!!!! lol bastards wouldn't know what it was called anyway haha But Viking...I guarentee that a whale penis will smooth out the fuel distribution problem...but make sure to get a killer whale's penis
It aint faster than my Powerwagon!!!!!!!!!!I bet 500 bucks on it!!!!!!!!!!! This ol gal will do 0-60 in under 5 seconds!!!!!!!!! Of course thats in low range and the motor is screaming for mercy at 5500rpm!!! But to be fair about it, i will race your poontang, quarter mile, in the mud, 3 foot deep, and And i will give you a quarter mile head start!!!!!!!! And still stomp your ass, with a phucked up carb!!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
yea but 60 is as fast as it will go. Dreamz what are you running, I used to run 9.90 at 137 mph at Palmdale. Was running 347 stroker with Vortech blower V2 trim and aftercooler, 42 lb injectors on high flow rails, AFR 205 heads with 80cc blower exhaust port, custom ground cam, bbk headers with 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Flowmasters, 3.73 gearing, extrude honed gt40 intake. On a shift from 2nd to 3rd the u joint took a dump and a piece punctured one of the rear tires , i was in the left lane but I hit the K rail on the right lane, probably about 100 mph. The car was trashed, all the components that were in the front of the motor were destroyed, including the blower. The harness and rollcage saved my butt, i did spend 2 days in the hospital but nothing broken only for observation. the only thing that could be saved were the heads, the rest went to the crusher. Have not been to the track since.
In low range, yes, at sixty the valves are floating and it just cant do any more!!!!! In high range, she is good for about 110-120......but havent tried it since i put the muders on it, I dont think they would like it!!!!! only done about 80 mph with them on, and thats fast enough with a large tire like that!! 33x10.5's I am gunna look at the carb situation tommorrow....hope i get it back to normal........OH!!!! one more thing!!!! the right exhaust manifold is leaking with a blown out gasket really bad......dont think it would make that big of difference though, but damn, with the open headers and the leaky exhaust, she sounds like a Nascar series truck when she id wide open!!!!! LOL!