Autopage C3RSTKE900 Problems (x2)

Discussion in 'Car Alarm, Remote Start and other Accessories.' started by niklndymer, Dec 8, 2010.

  1. niklndymer

    niklndymer Member

    I am looking for information regarding some problems I am having with the Autopage C3RSTKE900. I have had 2 recent installs of this same product and both have different problems. One install is on a 1999 Dodge Stratus, w/o keyless entry or factory security. Initially, all worked perfectly. One month later, I have had a problem with either of the two master power supply 20A fuses (from the two separate ignition switch feeds). Either fuse will blow, rendering the remote start as well as ENTIRE key operation not functional. All leads and connections were checked and rechecked, including all grounds. The 2 fuses were replaced with 20A circuit breakers. Now, as one would expect, the car will remote start fine, then will shut down after 1-3 min. (when the circuit breaker trips most likely). But, at least upon reset, the key functions are OK. That is ONE vehicle.
    The other is a 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser with keyless entry and factory security. The problem relates to the factory security system SOMETIMES does not permit the factory key to start the car. It may have to do with the lock/unlock sequencing, thus arming and disarming. The remote and/or key will always work fine after the car has sat for more than an hour. But, it is still troubling, especially if another family member drives the car.
    I have both factory service manuals for the cars, and used them for schematics.
    Thanks in advance.
  2. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    might i suggest contacting them thru email, or talk to whom ever installed your alarms.
  3. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    In both cases, the install is not right. Take it back to whoever installed it.

    In the first case, if the remote start blows a fuse the car should still start normally. There is no way that the remote start can or should prevent the car from starting normally.

    As far as the PT Cruiser, how are you bypassing the factory security? What bypass kit are you using? If the factory key is not working, something is really not installed properly. The factory ket should ALWAYS start the car no matter what happens to the remote start
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2010
  4. niklndymer

    niklndymer Member

    I am the installer. I have installed units such as Viper, Scytek, and Bulldog units to all of my vehicles over the years. Yes, there most likely is an install problem. That is why I am here. The core of my problem lies with: 1) The install manual contains some errors (mainly in the wiring and programming), perhaps in the Chinese/English translation, and 2) the COMPLETE lack of support from Autopage. No responses to phone messages or emails. Yes, I am not an registered dealer or installer. This is a major handicap.
    Before I rip out and dispose of 2 systems, I am attempting to investigate the problems and make the repairs.
    I am aware that most all remote starters are "piggyback" installs that should never disable an OEM system. Be that as it has. For the Stratus, I am going to take another look at the timed light circuit relays; dome and running lights.
    The PT Cruiser uses an Omega Pass-4 transponder bypass module. I am trying to establish details on the factory keysense circuit.
  5. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    I've never had much luck with Omega, but I know many who swear by them. So I'm probably wrong.

    The Autopage system should have a data port, is the interface plugged into that data interface or is it hard wired? My thinking is this (PT Cruiser), it wont start with the factory key becuase the bypass module is "on". Think about it, if the bypass is on the car does not recognize the key.

    Try this, next time it wont start, unplug the bypass then try to start it, lets see what happens.
  6. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    2) 20 A fuses blowing....? Hmmm?

    And car will not start. I understand that times have changed, Dramitically since my last remote start install back about 2000, but, some things remain constant.

    The blowing of a fuse is obvious as to why, excess current draw.

    Essentially, we wire into the ignition, start and accesory wires to accomplish the task at hand. What I would be interested to know is WHEN the fuse blows? Is it when something turns on such as a ehater or defrost circuit, or maybe when the A/C clutch kicks in for defrost....etc.

    Also, do not rule out the idea that an on board relay could be at fault..... Reminds me...does this remote start run the start wire from the column to the starter THROUGH the unit in series? I hope not! Some unit years ago did that, and when the terminals on board of 30 and 87a failed it would not start

    Its very hard to diagnose an issue without the thing in front of your face!

    I wil say this also, I installed countless autopage sytems in the bygone years, we sold them cause we had the BEST results and lowest failure rate out of them. They were better than clifford and most others in my opinion, however, times have changed, so........
  7. niklndymer

    niklndymer Member

    Thanks for the reply. I am not using the optional Idatalink module for the data port, and the Omega bypass is tapped into the designated wire (..."for bypass module that may be required..") that is 200mA (-) ground output when running. This wire provides a ground after remote start is initiated and remains grounded while engine is running. I am unsure if this is a problem. I am also looking at the keysense wire. I am not sure what is required for the keysense, or if tapping the OEM wire is required for operation.
  8. niklndymer

    niklndymer Member

    Thanks for the reply. I appreciate the function of the fuses as to excessive amperage. A fuse will also blow from a dead short, and I hope this is not the case. You can understand why I am using 2-20A circuit breakers now, so as to not fully disable the vehicle (even using the key!). The entire remote ignition wiring is spliced (or "piggy-backed) onto the OEM vehicle column wiring. Nothing "in series".
    After remote starting, the vehicle will typically shut down 45-50 seconds after initiation and start-up. This is after setting the blower on "high" and the defroster(A/C) is on.
    NEWSFLASH***Vehicle was just retested using the remote start, without using the blower or defroster. Run time was the full programmed 10 min., and then shut down normally. do I look for excessive current draws within the system? Do I tap different 12v constant wires?
    Feeling a bit better...but still scratching my head.
    Thanks again.
  9. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    I always run the power wires out to the battery. I have two Autopage remote starts, one in a 98 Tracer the other in a 2010 Toyota. In both cases, power goes to the battery. The autopage has two high current wires and one low current, I wire all three to a single 10ga and head for the battery.


    I would still look at the bypass module on the other car. My personal preference is the xpresskit module. Basically I only had to hookup four wires, two to the CAN BUS and the TX RX at the immobilzer. This took care of lock, unlock, all pin switches, tach, and immobilizer. The bypass was connected to the Autopage with the data plug.

    By using the data, much less chance of making a wiring error.
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2010
  10. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Like ranger has said....draw power from the battery....and use external relays triggered off the remote starts outputs to run these accesories......I bet that will get ya goin...

    The on board relays used even 10-15 years ago on alot of systems were junk in my opinion....I imagine they are even worse now!

    But i have to say this also, In most of the RS systems I did, i used the primary voltage source at the steering column....never an issue...

    I would tend to look into the vehicle itself from what you said, check for current draw on the circuits you suspect....if one is showing a high current draw...put an external relay on...(fused of course)
  11. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    But in many modern cars, the computer does all the work. There is no need for a high current wire at the ignition column. An example is my 2010 Toyota, there is no wire larger than 14ga at the ignition switch. The new Chev trucks only have 16ga wires at the ignition switch. Again, the computer does everything. Example, if my engine is running, I can turn the key to the start position all day. The computer knows the engine is running and won't crank the starter.

    I believe (cann't remember when dodge switched to a CAN BUS system) that the PT Cruiser also has no High current wire at the ignition switch.
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2010
  12. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member


    Just goes to show how far behind I am in some areas of this!

    Thanks are correct. I remember some foreign cars that did this now that you mention that...

    Its good to have someone in the know to correct ones self!
  13. DMP

    DMP Full Member

    I installed a few Autopage units before.....had a problem with one. Called tech support and did what they said. Even did a few tricks of my own. Still had problems. My half brother's dad has been installing alarms (possibly) and remote starters ever since they have been made. I think he used to make his own remote starters too. Anyways, he used Autopage for a little while and stopped using them. He said he had too many problems with them. Ive had luck with DEI units, Omega, and most Audiovox stuff.

    I dont know if this is common with Autopage units, but I think they take too long to respond compared to other brands. And im talking about the 2-way LCD systems. Installed an Autopage unit using Xpresskit CANMAX on a Caddy Deville. Worked out great and was alot easier (less wires). It just takes awhile to respond with the remote.

    I never ran power wires under the hood for a remote starter. But I havent worked on every type of vehicle either. But ive worked on ALOT.
  14. DMP

    DMP Full Member

    Did the Xpresskit really plug into the Autopage unit using the data plug? I installed one and had to use W2W. Either way doesnt matter....just wondering tho.
  15. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Yes it did. Autopage did have some problems originally with the data part not communicating with some bypass units, but it looks like thats been solved. But ALWAYS double check, Autopage was bad about not being compatible with RS-232 protocol. Again double check. They are always compatible with Fortan. The data plug is pretty much universal (kinda like USB ) and it needs to be with whats coming out of Detriot today. But again, Autopage was notorious for not always working with all interfaces. B)

    Look at all the new GMs and Chryslers, NO starter wire. With out the correct bypass (interface) the install just became complicated.

    I was an Autopage dealer so I ran into very few problems.
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2010
  16. niklndymer

    niklndymer Member

    I think I am following. Are you suggesting that the notion of running a 10ga. wire directly from the battery is good, and that, if need be, installing an external relay (perhaps 30-40A), fused, from the remote feed to the blower and/or running lights? I am familiar with the relays, am now buying them in bulk quantities, and on this car have installed them on the dome light, door locks, horn, and trunk release.
  17. niklndymer

    niklndymer Member

    I am beginning to get a little bit overwhelmed with the information regarding the problem with the PT Cruiser. I have never installed, or had the need to install an external device such as the Xpresskit CANMAX or the IdataLink. There is a LOT of information on each item and they both seem to do the same things. I have read much of the information contained on both products, and am not sure if these are the types pf products I need or not. I have installed a variety of remote starters (mostly on Chrysler products) and have never had the need for anything more than a bypass module on those with factory security with a transponder key. I am trying not to be ignorant, and simply need the remote start to work as it should without my having to write down a specific lock/unlock/arm/disarm/ start sequence for other family member who drive this car.
    So far, I am NOT loving the Autopage systems. The support for non-registered and approved installers in non-existent. The errors in the install manual are frustrating. BUT, I am liking the range (rated at 1 mile, and I have used it up to 3/4 mile so far). There is little delay in starting in my opinion, about 3-5 seconds after triggering.
    Thanks for all the input.
  18. DMP

    DMP Full Member

    Wish I could help more with your problems, but I cant. For me personally, its something I would need to look at myself.

    Dont believe in your system working from 1 mile away. It might work like that if you are in a straight line and in the middle of nowhere (flat land/desert). The little delay in starting seems normal to me.
  19. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Lets see

    Your PT cruiser has two accessory wires, a black/orange and a black/white. Check with a volt meter, do they have 0 volts during cranking? If so, The Brown wire from the Autopage can power one of them. The other will be powered through a relay and the Blue/Black from the 20pin connector will control the relay.

    From the main power plug the Pink (ignition2) will not be used.

    To turn your bypass on, use the yellow wire on the 20-pin connector. USE a relay.
    (I know you shouldn't need one, but when in doubt, use a relay)

    The factory security system arms and disarms throught the lock/unlock wire. The Autopage locks the doors prior to remote starting. To disarm, the pink wire, 20 pin connector (yes through relays) needs to be used to send a single pulse to the unlock wire. This will disarm the factory security without unlocking the doors. To make sure the factory security is not being armed make sure you turn off the "lock before start feature".

    Now here is what I'm not sure about, can the correct interface do unlock, lock, disarm through the cars data line. If so use one. It will save you alot of time.

    Just checking, my notes say a 3K resistor to lock and a double pulse through a 7.2K to unlock, is that right?

    Now the autopage will need to be programmed to do double pulse, and the pink wire will need to be programmed to do factory disarm

    Finally use the Tach Check (not voltage), Black/ Gray at the igntion coil. (correct interface may do this also, but I'm not sure, 2002 was a long time ago and I'm old). The Autopage will need to learn the tach signal, but its in the directions.
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2010
  20. niklndymer

    niklndymer Member

    I have had a breakthrough on the '99 Stratus. I installed (2) new 12V constant supply wires directly from the battery. Then, there was NO operation of the remote unit OR the key start function. It seems that upon the initial remote starter installation, there was a blown 20A mini-fuse at the PDC under the hood. That disabled one 12V constant feed wire from the key ignition source. It seems that the OTHER 12V constant would back-feed THROUGH the remote starter to keep things working, either remote or key activated ignition, but would exceed the 20A fuses (or c. breakers) on either supply wire if the blower was on "high" with the defroster on.
    So, after replacing the 20A mini-fuse and using the two new 10ga. battery feed wires, all is well.
    I am also learning the sequencing of lock/unlock, arm/disarm, etc. of the '02 PT Cruiser.
    Thanks for your help.