4 Fi Audio IB3 18's walled off 15Hz tune in a VAN BUILD LOG

my neighbor buddy, i made him cut the holes on the last baffle board..they dont much matter anyway theyre way in back..but he did pretty good

 

it's been a while since I've been challenged on my "infinite baffle woofer" usage, but someone is... forceful again, so i thought my reply is a good one for all the IB3 VAN builds

I have already proved the IB3 18 works great in an enclosure. I have been running mine in one for the last year. Over a year ago I ran it in an Aztek, 21.5 cubic feet, 7.5" port, 15Hz tune. I then retuned to 20Hz, 25Hz, and 33Hz to experiment, then back to 15. I first ran it with a Lanzar OPTI2000D. That wasn't enough power for this ""IB"" sub. Then I got a Hifonics BXi2608D. It still wasn't enough at 2 ohms, so I ordered a custom dual 2 recone kit to run it at 1 ohm.

Then I brought the box in my home. It worked great in-car and in-home. In the house I first ran it off 2 cheap walmart plate amps. Considering the power it was most impressive. Then I ran it off a Behringer EP4000.

Since I was right, I bought 6 more of them, and I am now running 2 of them in 128 cubic feet each, with an EP4000 each.

The VAN build is the same thing... 22 cubic feet, 15Hz tune...just more port area.

This is a video in the Aztek off a Lanzar OPTI2000D. It was loud, it was clear, it was low, responce was smooth, flat, and wide. It played very high as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGWsO36WPtc

I hope you have a good stereo on your PC. I just watched this vid and it made my computer and monitor BOUNCE in the next room. Anyone who wants to politely ask my opinion, fine, but beware about being cocky. This video right here was made with a cheap 60 watt amp from walmart. I'd like to see any other subwoofer do a lot better than this one did off 60 watts..period.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kc45DVa205Q

The camera used in the last vid and this vid was terrible, all noise is distorted..even quiet... so this is exaggerated a bit. But for 60 watts, this "infinite baffle" subwoofer shakes the entire house.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9waeVEMYhY

Now the thing that I loved about the walmart amps, was they played single digit subsonics that my EP4000s can not. This video was made to show the guys on Home Theater Shack that I indeed did get a lot of port velocity on a 7.5" port with an IB 18 with less than 200 watts. This used to shake my house with the 1 sub, but with my new amps it's almost not even present. EP's are known for a steep roll off below 20Hz.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z08-wdYLYnA

gotta love WOTWs. while in a huge box tuned low to get subsonics, it still hit hard, kicked hard, slammed hard for the punch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOgvx6-pXYg

my favorite part of the whole movie. if you dont have a huge system hooked to your PC youre not gonna get this...it is far too low and you have to move a LOT of air.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVfQeNr3V4Q

a song with sub 20Hz material and thumping at the same time?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kw2AgXgqzns

got the EP4000's, my old sub was dual 2, the new ones are dual 4, so I wanted to blow my old sub to recone it as a dual 4 so I have a replacement. this is a 17Hz sine wave... a lot of power AT TUNING. with an infinite baffle speaker. hmmm. blowing wind across the room.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bH-vBmcvJc

10Hz on a 17Hz tune... unloading still shakin my house and blowing air full excursion. listen to the EP4000 fan kickin it in high gear at the end when I stop the sine wave.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAJuDR_q48Y

Built the Two Towers.... distorts the crap out of the new camera, 780i HD

These were with a 6.5Hz tune! 128 cubic feet per box, 12" diameter port, 48" long

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2-I-WmbUMs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnla31MFWR0

ever made two 200lb boxes rock back and forth and fan blads bounce froma 6Hz sine wave?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NY_JNzJMA1A

retuned to 15Hz... FULL EXCURSION sine wave for a full minute, didnt even get the sub warm.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbz7bKnDbaA

did it again, with my back door shut. It is on the other side of the house...and it was moving so far i could see light through it from outside.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6jQTaDAQjw

I rest my case

thanks

 

on this alpine deck I have 2 long yellow wires o the harness, yellow blue for parking break and yellow black for foot break.

I am assuming these are to ensure youre not driving and playing video at the same time?

 

alright there are 2 brake wires to make sure your parked to be able to view video. yellow blue is parking brake and yellow black is foot brake .

To watch video source, push foot break to come to a complete stop, then engage park brake . Keep pushing foot brake and release parking brake once then engage again. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time release the foot brake .

I'm going to use 2 toggle switches for this so others can watch video while I drive safely.


The diagram showing splicing into the foot brake lamp and parking brake lamp shows the foot brake spliced into the positive wire after the switch, before the lamp.

It shows the parking brake spliced after the lamp but before the switch, making it the negative.

So does the foot need to be on a positive switch and the parking a grounded switch?

anyway here's my first wobbly vid right after I installed it driving around playing a cd and getting a feel for the touch screen and tilt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ugDbUEs_u8


Got the hydrolic crimper ( thanks again for the heads up rmzsuzuki89 ) and 4th subwoofer amp replacing the one I sold to my neighbor.

 

One of the amps has a loose item floating inside, like a screw or something. I don't want to complain and send it back to have them crack the case and make sure it wasn't off of something and came out, I'd guess just dropped inside... but I don't want to void warranty and open it myself (if I even have a warranty). What should I do? This is what happened years ago with my first Lanzar OPTI2000D. Something was loose, but I hooked it to the Avalanche anyway. It worked fine. All a sudden it fried the sub then went to protect mode. It had a busted fan, overheated, shorted out, 12V DC to sub.

 

ya youre right, he told me it would take forever to get this 4th replacment amp so i was happy to be surprised I got it so soon, but this not so nice surprise..but yeah ill email him

 

I've had a bunch of those drill bit extentions all over in my way, now that Ive needed one I cant find any of them. I have at least 5 different tool stashes and boxes..kept digging, none to be found. So I ran to walmart and bought one so I can actually tighten the amps down... at first glance these pics look the same, but they look way better now that they're not just hanging

 

pardon my brain fart: shouldn't a toggle switch have 2 contacts? positive and negative or in and out? I'm using toggle switches for the foot brake, parking brake, tweet amp remote, mid woof amp remote, midbass amp remote, and sub amp remotes. The switches have 3: positive, negative, and accessory. Brain fart or what? lol wow.

So for my foot brake a hot wire into switch, then on the out the deck wire...so when I switch ON it will think I am pressing my foot brake.

Hot wire in, parking brake wire on deck out so it thinks my parking brake is depressed.

The other 4 switches, remote wire from deck split into 4, then run wires to the remotes on amps. So there is my second question: how many amps can the HU remote wire support? I have 4 subwoofer amps and three 4-channels. 7 amps.

Later, I'm gonna have to worry about RCA's. Will I need an RCA distro block for the 4 subwoofer amps?

 

My friend just grounded the parking brake to the ground for the HU. But I tested my wire and it has nothing, which means it wants power input, no?

the manual has a diagram showing the foot brake being spliced on the positive side after the switch before the lamp. The parking brake on the positive side after the lamp but before the switch. it's confusing!


This is getting more complicated than I think it should be. The manual shows the yellow black wire sliced into the foot brake and the yellow blue spliced into the parking break. Are they both grounds? Are they both looking for power input? 1 ground and the other power input? The diagram is confusing in the maual. Google search yields:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-product-reviews/35852-alpine-iva-w505-37.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/head-units/373202-alpine-iva-w505-parking-brake-bypass.html

Ideas?

 

The resin vapors were getting to me yesterday, the toggle switches have a lights DUH!

 

" To watch a video source:

1. push the foot brake to bring your vehicle to a complete stop at a safe location. Engage parking brake.

2. Keep pushing the foot brake and release the parking brake once then engage it again.

3. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time, release the foot brake. "

 

Alright I have 6 light up toggle swtiches. 1 for the super tweets, 1 for mid rangers, 1 for mid woofers, and 1 for subwoofers... so I can turn on any combination of them I want. Then I have 2 more for the video on the DVD player, 1 for foot pedal and 1 for parking brake.











ripped the wire from the roof and burried in the dash

 

I refuse to use electrical tape. In my 15 years of extensive electrical work, I never ever use electrical tape. I ALWAYS use duct tape and that will never change. BTW I meant to comment that after twisting the wires together, I then twisted them into a bunch, a tight ball, as I always do..but the pics of the ball were blurry.

While driving around, I turned the 4 remote toggles on to see how the lights held up with current draw. They got warm! WTF!Just 4 of the lights, as the other 2 need to be left off after doing the sequence. I'm worried now what'll happen when there's 7 amps hooked to them too.

Here it is: Avatar drivin in the car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3NLz6fG1lk