Upgrading to a powerful system (1500+ watts)

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by eazy, Jul 9, 2007.

  1. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well as many of you know right now I have 2 Kicker 400.1's powering 2 Kicker CVR12's, a Kicker 350.2 powering a set of 5-1/4" CDT components, and a pair of MTX 5x7's running off the headunit. Each CVR12 is getting 400 watts, each 5-1/4" is getting 110 watts, and each 5x7" is getting 18 watts.


    It's time to upgrade. A guy at work told me if I ever wanted to upgrade my system he'd buy my old one from me provided that I install it in his Jaguar for him. Well I was thinking one option would be 2 Fi BL15's or 2 Fi Q15's and 1 Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D. I'm not positive that's what I want, but I know I want at least 15's and some serious power. It's going in my 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis LS. Right now I have a pretty big duralast gold battery, a 135 amp alternator, the big three with 1/0 gauge, sound deadened trunk and rear deck, and I'll be keeping the 350.2 and all the speakers... and the headunit. I'll be building the ported box for the subs as well.

    I'd like to make a price list of all the elements so I know roughly what I'd have to spend. If any of you have a good combination of amp/subs and their prices feel free to chime in.
     
  2. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    chime, chime ED cough cough.. Orion cough cough...LOL
     
  3. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    what you listed sounds like an awsome set up.

    i do know a guy who's been ruuning some power akoustic 3000d's for a while now with no prob's,and they are cheaper than the sundown.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    now he does run 2 per sub at 4500 watts to 3 fi 15's
    Power Acoustik A3000dB
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2007
  4. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    he also has a 170 amp alt.and 2 stinger batts.

    so your 135 amp alt and big3 should work great.
     
  5. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

  6. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Alright I got the hookup on the Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D... $450 shipped brand new with warranty from legit dealer. Now, what subs?
     
  7. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    you mentioned Fi.get those.for those subs to handle 4500 watts daily........they have to be good
     
  8. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Alright an SPL guy said he knows a guy who knows what hes doing that has an Incriminator Audio 20.1 in very good condition... selling it for $450 shipped. 2000 watts rms.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2007
  9. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Well I think I'm going to go with two 12's... whatever they may be... but Fi's are sounding good... any other ideas for subs(powerful 12's) and an amp(1500+watts)?
     
  10. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    whats wrong with what you just mentioned?
     
  11. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    I can't fit an optimally ported box for two 15's and keep my spare tire.
     
  12. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    I realized i don't have room for a 20 inch high box which at least one side needs to be for my 18" woofer, the trunk won't close and there's lot's of curves and wasted space if i was to put a square box in there, sooooooo...I'm just going to estimate and use the one 20" high wood faceplate peice for the sub and the rest of the box will be fiberglass and the car lol. That way i can use all the wasted space, just make sure it's sealed and i will still have half my trunk left. I'm thinking the box i will end up with will be 3-5 cubic feet which is good but tuning could be tricky not knowing the exact cubic feet. Maybe i'll try azn's patented, stolen, idea of removable ports lol.

    That Incriminator amp looks pretty sweet, specs are similar to my orion.

    The IA20.1 series amplifier is our solution for your ultra-high power car audio needs. This versatile amplifier is capable of producing power levels that can be used by both a serious competitor and the hardcore street enthusiast. Unlike other amplifiers on the market that have to be modified to reach competition power levels, the IA20.1 is a plug and play unit. No more cutting internals, modifying fuses, or splicing wires. This amplifier is also strappable, which means it can be “daisy chained” with another IA20.1 to produce even higher levels of power. For the street enthusiast, this amplifier produces enough power to supply either a pair of competition woofers, or a multiple subwoofer setup. Whether you are cruising down the road with your ground pounder, or you are like dB Drag Racing competitor Scottie Johnson and need a 3 second burp, this amplifier is for you.

    Features:
    Power Ratings: 1800 watts x 1 at 1 ohm
    900 watts x 1 at 2 ohms
    450 watts x 1 at 4 ohms
    Strapable Pair: 3600 watts x 1 at 2 ohms
    Protection Circuit 3 Way (Overheat, Overload, Short Circuit)
    Frequency response 10Hz~350Hz
    Signal/Noise Ratio 105dB
    T.H.D @ 4 Ohm < 0.05%
    Efficiency @ 4 Ohm 87%
    Low Pass Filter 45Hz~300Hz
    Subsonic Filter 20Hz~50Hz
    Bass Boost Slope 0~18dB
    Size: 10.25" Wide x 2.25" Height x 21.75" Long
     
  13. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Does everyone think 2 1000+ watt Fi BL12's are the way to go? They're $260 shipped. It's either those or the Q12's... which are also $260. The Q's are rated at the same power but from what I've heard they can't take much more. The BL's can take a beating.

    www.ficaraudio.com
     
  14. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    the btl's. they rock.those vids i showed you are of the btl's
     
  15. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Yeah but do BTL's even sound good with music... I thought they were purely an SPL sub.
     
  16. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    if you plan to beat the crap out of them get the one's that will handle the power.

    either way, you want to put 1000 per sub.how musical can that be?:lol:
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2007
  17. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    Okay I'm thinking a Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D and 2 Fi Q12's or 2 SSD12's ported. I'm going to keep the 350.2. I found some real world specs on the Sundown...




    "I don't know if many of you guys are aware of Sundown Audio, I am the owner and we started selling amps in August this year. Some good real world results are available now such as the results I'm about to post. Thought some of you competition guys may be interested.

    Thanks to bigbassman, Loyd L for this test:

    "Ok.. I've been an arseho long enough... results from teh sundowns...

    Test Vehicle.. mine.. 05 aveo..

    RMS clamp and dmm, as seen in the 12" test session..

    This testing includes recent results, and not so recent..

    woofers used.. 2 Mags (1.9 dcr per coil), 2 FI Q 12's (1.4 dcr per coil)

    either used 1 sub or both of the pair for loads..

    pure 60hz sine was used to tested.. just under audible clipping

    1 amp, single 1000ca everstart maxx, factory alt

    4 ohm nominal = 518 watts @ 88% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 14.0v)
    2 ohm nominal = 948 watts @ 85% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 13.6v)
    1 ohm nominal = 1510 watts @ 78% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.4 volts
    .5 ohm nominal = 1615 watts @ 72% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 11.8v)
    .35 ohm nominal = 1748 watts @ 67% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 11.4v)

    amplifier was protection happy @ .35 with tones, and some music.

    IMO.. one 1500d should be limited to 1 ohm nominal use in factory electrical systems.. for the sake of the car.. not the amp

    now... to have fun with some juice..

    1 amp, single 1000ca everstart maxx, 1 Eagle Picher 12a5000, factory alt

    4 ohm nominal = 520 watts @ 88% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 14.1v)
    2 ohm nominal = 960 watts @ 84% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 13.7v)
    1 ohm nominal = 1635 watts @ 75% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.8 volts
    .5 ohm nominal = 1890 watts @ 71% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.8v)
    .35 ohm nominal = 2245 watts @ 65% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.8v)

    amplifier did fine @ .35 with tones and music with the added battery

    2 amps strapped, with both batteries (for the sake of not typing it over and over... voltage drops from 14.3v, to 12.8 the entire test... lol

    4 ohm strapped = 1900 watts @ 82% efficiency
    2 ohm strapped = 3150 watts @ 72% efficiency
    1 ohm strapped = 3740 watts @ 68% efficiency
    .5 ohm strapped = 4425 watts @ 65% efficiency
    .35 ohm strapped = 5415 watts @ 62% efficiency

    amps would only tolerate a VERY short burp @ .35.."




    How would I wire this? Do you think I'd need a second battery? How would I setup the power wires? Right now I have a 1/0 gauge run from the underhood duralast gold to the trunk... then it goes into a mini-anl fused distribution block and splits into 3 4 guage runs that go to the 3 amp power terminals.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2007
  18. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    refresh my memory....how many coils and at what impeadance?

    i know a guy that runs 8 of those at .35ohms all day long.
    they run like champs,but he keeps blowing subs.

    reading the test reports he's giving each btl 5400 watts at .35ohms.he says they dont even get hot.just warm.

    starting to sound like something i would want for my kicker.
     
  19. jmenace_thakidd

    jmenace_thakidd Full Member

    yea i plan on getting either 1 FI BL 15 or 2 12s they are awesome subs the Qs are great also but if your lookin for the all out SPL get the BTL they are really great subs and visit this forum they have a section for FI audio

    SSA: (Powered by Invision Power Board)

    and the owner Scott post there almost everyday so any questions you have about the subs he will answer
     
  20. eazy

    eazy Full Member

    No, not wire the subs, I mean how should I do the power wires/extra battery wires. Multiple 1/0 gauge runs? Etc.

    And I want SQ, so I'm either going with the Q's or the SSD's.