I recently installed a kicker DX1000.1 amp with 2 CVRs in an 07 Monte Carlo. After I finished and started playing with the settings for about 20 minutes or so I blew an 80 amp fuse. The next day I disconnected and sanded my grounding point again and traced the power wire as well to make sure there were no cuts or anything then put in a 60 amp fuse (was all I had at the time). Everything sounded fine and didn't smell funny when I hooked it back up, that time around it worked for about 3 hours then blew a fuse. As far as I can tell I have no dead shorts, no cuts in the power wire or ground, and no single stray strands at any connection points. The subs are wired at 1 ohm and I used "4 gauge" wire which actually turned out to be 6 gauge wire with 4 gauge coating. Right after I blew the 80 amp fuse the power wire was very warm before and after the fuse but not warm inside the car. Could the 6 gauge wire be my problem? I called Crutchfield tech support and they told me to slap in a 100 amp fuse but I've never dealt with them before and wasn't sure if their tech support are as dumb as install bays at best buy. Especially since my headlights were dimming worse than when I had an 1800 watt rockford amp in a different car on a 30 amp fuse several years back. Does anyone have any insight on tests or suggestions I could try? Thanks in advance for any help.
few questions...the fuse at the battery? And the fuse itself...does it appear to have gotton excessivley hot/slightly melted looking? This will help determine a few things.....
It was the fuse at the battery, and it does look like it has gotten a bit hot. I didn't look closely at the 80 amp fuse but the 60 amp fuse I have right now does look like it has gotten a bit hot.
The outside metal pieces that connect with the glass tube and the fuse holder don't look discolored like they have been hot, just the center metal piece inside the tube. I was using the fuses they sell at radio shack that are the bigger style glass tube type fuse.
Good potential for lack of voltage/currrent going to the amp. With 6 awg wire you can use a 80 amp fuse maximum if i remember correct. DONT use a 100 or 150 amp... Next thing...have you upgraded the big three as outlined in the automotive electrical of this site? Low voltage and undercurrent will cause a fuse to melt instead of blow, well it will eventually blow...but this is what it SOUNDS like. Do the big three upgrade, this will be the first steps in helping to eliminate your issues!
I had a the same exact problem when i was using the little glass fuses, i was blowing 100 amp fuses once a week and it was getting anoying! I picked up a 60amp ANL fuse like 3 years ago and that thing still has yet to go =D. There a bit expensive but worth it!
Good point Fbmowner...one of the problems with a glass fuse is the contact area for current transfer. this can also cause excessive heat and failure. A good ol ANL fuse is BOLTED in place..makes for a good solid reliable connection.
I have not done the big 3 upgrade yet but have been looking into it. I am probably going to upgrade my fuse holder and power wire first as I have access to the wire I need for that more easily and am kinda short on cash at the moment, if that doesn't seem to make things better I'm planning on unhooking it till I do the big 3 upgrade. When I was installing it I followed the wiring diagram listed on the rockford site for 2 dual 4s at 1 ohm. I was confused when doing it as to which voice coils the diagram was referring to. Is the circuit the same if you connect the wire that links each sub together to either voice coil? What I did was connected the positive terminals and negatives on each sub then connected the black dotted negatives on each sub together and ran that to the negative on the amp, then connected the solid reds on each sub together and ran that to the amp. My friend has some 4 gauge Scosche brand wire from a kit that is sold at wal-mart, it appears to be bigger than the "4 gauge" (The Install Bay brand) I got from radio shack anything wrong with Scosche wire? I don't feel like spending 3.50ish per foot for name brand stuff if I can get cheaper stuff for free. I could get some welding wire which I hear works just as good but again, if I can do it for free then that's even better! Sorry for all the questions. Been out of the car audio thing for a few years and haven't had this much trouble with an install before.
Im a bit confused on your wiring part of the question, but for now ill leave it at this. If your amp isnt cutting out or going into protect, your most likely not pushing it to hard so i wouldnt worry about that rite now, your main problem is blowing the fuse. Take a few bucks and pick up an ANL fuse holder and a fuse, and when you get some extra time and wire, do a big 3 upgrade. I can almost guarantee if you change to an ANL fuse youll stop blowing the ones you have! Good luck!
