Installing alarm on my 07 mustang

Discussion in 'Car Alarm, Remote Start and other Accessories.' started by luckydawg003, Sep 12, 2007.

  1. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    I installed a python 990 alarm remote/start, 689m-neutral safety bypass, and 556sw r/s bypass.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2007
  2. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Thats up to you.

    If you have never installed an alarm or remote start before, I would recommend that you take it to a pro. You could accidently do something bad to your car and your warranty wont cover it.

    If you insist on doing it yourself I can send you the info that I have on that car. You will need to PM me your E-Mail address.
     
  3. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Important info thats missing, read the notes about the pull up resistor, its absolutely necessary
     

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  4. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    Thanks for the info.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2007
  5. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    When I did the install one my car (there is no time problems as with a customers car), I installed the hood pin switch, siren, LED and anything else that needed to be done. In my case, I used the tach signal (not necessary with most systems today) so I located that wire ahead of time.

    As far as which wire to use, all wires should be checked before attaching to it. Any good installer will know that.

    Also notice in my notes that the constant 12-volt wire is only a 20-amp supply. DONT use it for the remote start. Run a fused wire to the Battery.
     

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  6. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    Today I tied all the wires together on my brain. I mounted the siren in the engine bay, put the brain in the car and started to run the wires to where they need to be. I also stripped some wires and tested them to make sure they were the right wires. I tied all 3 of the red power wires together and was planning on tying them to the 12v constant wire. But someone said I should run a fused line to the battery. I would rather keep everything in the car so a thief can't just pop my hood and take out the fuse and then he can take his time stealing my car.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2007
  7. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    Well I still have a bunch of wires and no clue where they connect too. For example starter I have two wires from the brain one for key side, other for starter side and only 1 +green starter wire on the car? +Trunk pin or -trunk release which to use, I have both wires located on car, just not sure what to use from brain(trunk input -blue)? My installer said I don't need to hook up the factory arm/disarm, hand brake, or key sense wires.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2007
  8. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    Hooked up trunk release and trunk pin to relays.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2007
  9. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Your question is confusing me, the trunk release should be white/purple and negative trigger. I always use a relay for truck release unless your module has built in relays for trunk release.

    For the trunk trigger use the white/yellow. Your alarm module should have both negative trigger and positive trigger inputs, use the positive trigger.

    You the negative trigger for the door pins. To prevent false triggering remember to use a pull up resistor or diode isolation. (in your case pull up resistor is easier)

    Hope I understood your questions
     
  10. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    I hooked up the trunk release -red/white wire from brain to car trunk release -white/purple. Trunk pin -blue to car trunk pin +white/yellow. I used relays for both wires. What does pulse negative and diode isolate mean?
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2007
  11. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Neg pulse means that the wire has a voltage on it when whatever device its hooked to is off. But when its on it does to ground.

    Diode isolation means that we can use 2 or more (this is an example) pin switches on a single trigger line, or two triggers on a single pin switch. My car uses a single pin switch for both the hood alarm trigger and for the remote start safety. Diode isolation makes the alarm think its hooked to two sepeate switches.

    Get help from your installer freind. If your alarm cannot handle the current to open the trunk it will do damage to the alarm module (better safe than sorry)

    The Ford GEM tests itself about every 20 minutes. When it does, the alarm will go off. The pull up resister prevents the alarm from going off every 20 minutes. One side will hook up to a constant 12-volt source, the other side will go to the Green/yellow wire at the SJB (the resistor needs to be 10K)

    We can also prevent false triggerring using a diode in line on the green/ yellow but the resistor will work

    That person is obviously not an installer. Bad arguement. They can still pop the hood and cut that battery wire. First the hood needs a pin switch on it, so that when it opened the alarm goes off. Second, most cars the hood is opened from the inside. Third it takes just as much time to cut the battery wire as it does to locate and remove the alarm fuse. Also no one knows the fuse is there unless you put a big neon sign saying its there.

    The constant positive wire in the car is only rated at 20 amps. NOT a good idea for powering a remote start

    Those are more than likely the ignition kill wires, if your car has a transponder in the key, then ignition kill is not necessary and a waste of time.

    Factory Disarm should be hooked up, the rest are optional.

    And I still feel the same way. I always encourage people to do things thenselves and learn. And I respect your decision to do this yourself. But for a project like this you really need the help of an experienced installer.

    Post back let us know how its going
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2007
  12. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    Today I bought a 4 pin relay for the trunk release, and a 10k resistor for the door pin. Today I hooked up the brake wire and the siren wire and grounded the alarm brain. I also ran the power wire for the brain to a grommet going to the battery. I think I will put a 30 amp fuse in it, let me know if that is too small. I will run the 3 red power wires from the alarm relay sat. to the 12v source in the car by the starter wires. Thanks for your help ranger svo.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2007
  13. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    I guess I need two relays. One for the trunk release and one for the trunk pin to change its polarity.I am using the 451m that came with my alarm as a relay for my trunk release. The trunk release is a -red/white wire from alarm brain, it is also a -white/violet on my car. So how do I set up the relay for it?
    For the Trunk Pin Relay...alarm is -blue, car is +white/yellow. How do I set that up to change the polarity? I have a 4 pin relay and the 451m 5 wire relay. Thanks
     
  14. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Pin 30 goes to ground, pin 87 goes to white/violet. Pin 86 goes to a constant 12 volt source and finally pin 85 goes to red/white

    To change polarity, Pin 87 goes to the blue wire. Pins 86 and 30 go to ground. Finally pin 85 goes to white yellow.
     
  15. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    Another ? I am going to run the brain's main power wire to the battery cause you said the 12v source in the car was only 20 amps. I am also gonna attach the two relays 12v constants and the 10k resistor(from the door pin) to it. What size fuse should I put in it. I am thinking 30 amp. If I don't need the ignition kill, cause I have the chip in the key, do I still have to cut the ignition green wire in half and attach the key side ign. and engine side ign. from the brain. Or can I just attach the two to it without cutting it in half? Thanks
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2007
  16. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    You can just attach the remote start wire to the car starter wire, you don't need to cut the car starter wire.

    I dont like wires hooked up all over the place, it makes for a sloppy install. In my car all the power wires go to the same place, the fuse is a 40-amp.

    Make sure I got this, one side of the resistor goes to a constant 12-volt source, the other side to the door pin trigger wire. If thats what you meant, you've got it.
     
  17. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    I finally finished the install and tested it today. Surprisingly everything works except my Blue Led keeps blinking 3 times, then pause, then 1 time, then pause, then repeats, even when the car is on. How do I disable this so it only stays on when the alarm is active? Also my alarm has a dome light supervision (-) black/white says to connect to a relay, but should this be connected to the same door pin wire which was the car dome light super?(-)lt. green/yellow or do I not need this?
     
  18. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    I like dome light supervision. You dont need it but its nice to have.

    Pin 85 goes to the alarm Black White. Pin 86 goes to a constant +12 volt. Pin 30 goes to ground and pin 87 goes to your door pin switch wire.

    Every alarm is different so I have no idea what your LED is telling you. Check with the owners manual or a dealer for that perticular brand.
     
  19. luckydawg003

    luckydawg003 Full Member

    Also I can't get valet mode to turn on or off? It is connected. Someone on another forum said I need my ignition wire connected. I didn't do that yet cause I haven't hooked up any of the r/s wires from the sat relay box. So will hooking up the dome super to the same doorpin wire just turn my interior lights on when I unlock the car? Thanks