How To Make The Subwoofer Box

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by superman, May 10, 2004.

  1. superman

    superman Guest

    I ordered my components for my mountaineer. We get sweet accomodations from Bazooka, and ended up getting their top line RX series 6.5" for the front (custom mounted in a plate since the hole size is for 5x7")
    and I got the RS series coaxial 6.5" for the rears. The total for all the speaks came to a whopping $83!! I couldn't pass up the chance to try them out for that price, so if they don't work out I can just get rid of them and try a new brand.
    The real issue I am up against is how to build a box for the factory sub location for a 10" brahma. I want to use 1" MDF for the whole thing but one of the sides of the factory panel is curved, here is a link to a pic of it on the MTX website http://mtx.com/caraudio/products/enclosures/FEX10.cfm
    Should I try out fiberglass for the curve needed on that side? I totally understand that I will have to build the enclusure to come out from that side wall by a good inch or two, but this curved side is posing a problem. I have never used fiberglass before, so if that is the route you guys think I should take, then I will need some pointers. Thanks!
     
  2. forbidden

    forbidden Full Member

    Yes, break out the fibreglass, it is very easy to work with. You will need painters tape, aluminum foil, a couple of GLAD garbage bags, cardboard and then the necessary evils like good matting, resin, catalyst, rubber gloves, cheapo paintbrushes, a good size tin can, respirator (or a fan in a highly ventilated area) and time. Fibreglass resin must be mixed with a catalyst in order for it to work. Once it has been mixed properly it has a limited period of time before it will set up. Work to slow and you will find that the resin will gel on you, throw it out if this is the case. Resin mixed with catalyst will also stick to pretty much anything, so be careful on where you place it (drops etc.) This is the reason for the cardboard and garbage bags, use them as a splash guard on the floor area.
    Cover the surface to be fibreglassed with the painters tape, make sure the tape overlaps properly. Next cover the tape with aluminum foil, tape the edges down again. Fibreglass resin does not usually stick to the foil or tape. Tape and foil a larger area than you will be working with, remember that excess resin will flow down so make sure that you have adequately covered the lower area.
    Do all of the woodwork first, leaving the front off of the box. Attach the box to the vehicle in the proper spot, this will make sure that your glass is laid up to the proper place. Start with strips of glass, cut them into smaller pieces so they are easy to work with. You want a nice smooth job, not overlaps that bunch up on each other. Mix the resin and catalyst according to instuctions, if you mix it a little too hot, no worries, you must work faster, that is all. I like to take my strips and totally immerse them in the mix, thus the large tin can. Sqeeze off the extra resin back into the can and place the strip in place. Move onto the next piece. DO not try and do it all at once, get one layer done and then let it set up. Depending on how hot you mix it, it may not take along time at all. Build up the layers to a minimum of 1/4" thick. Resin by itself is weak, resin mixed with matting is not. If it looks like you have too much resin, apply another piece of matting (not dipped) to it. This is where the el cheapo paintbruch comes into play. Acetone is needed to clean the brush and whatever else. Take your time and go step by step. It is not a large area to work with so it should be a fairly easy job to do.