ok this is a long story but I have to tell it all to get a good picture of my problem It has been running REALLY rough when it is colder (70's) in the morning, when i first start it up, and it seems to have no Power from 1000. to 1500rpm alos in the morning is seems like a cylinder to two is just not there.. but once it warms up it is perfect (expect for the power loss at low rpm) a Few months ago I did a Tune up on my Tbird while taking the Dist Cap off some how the bolt busted in the distibutor.. :angry: Me being the Lazy SOB I am, I "jerry rigged" it because I did not want to Replace it that week (i know iknow ) anyway 2 weeks ago I did Replace it.. I have replaced Distbutors many many many times so I know all the Procedures about making sure they go back the same way they came out and what not.. Well after Replacing it and doing a Fresh Tune as well is was running really rough, so I figured maybe I was a degree or 2 off so I advanced the timing to smooth it out.. (no timming light at the time) Ran fine.. expect for slight hesitation on take off few days passed and it started doing the same scrap(as Mentioned in the beginning) This weekend I broke out a Timming light, and it was WAY advanced,, The only problem is, I dont know if it is, The Timming is Computer controled, meaning the Computer can advance or retard the spark so everything I did manually the COmputer Undid.... plus I know in the cars i worked on you have to disconnect the vacume Advance, well I dont know how to disconnect a Electronic Advance, I tried disconnecting the Wire harness but that just made it not start at all :angry: When I did get it Retarded back to "near" the proper timming is barely wanted to run at all.. Could my Timming Chain/Belt be Streached? it is 10years old and 120K, anything else I can try?
generally when i'm baffled by a situation with "electronic controlled" engines, i'll go ahead and call about 10 different auto parts stores, read of my checklist of symptoms... and form a general consensus, then work from there. Parts guys have been more help to me than mechanics. Things i'd probably look at would be: air/fuel ratio/delivery - check/replace filters, clean injectors, try high octane or racing fuel and try to blast out carbon deposits. next, spark ignition - check each plug for any fouling, and re-check your gaps. Maybe try an upgrade from OEM plugs, and make sure your wires are good/tight. If all this makes no difference, i'd go back to my initial thought... one of the sensors, or the controller itself, may be on it's way out. I had crazy things going on with an all electronic Chrysler. Mainly charging/starting/electrical related. But everything was off the hook really. To the point i'd have just torched the car if i did'nt love the turbo in it so much. Turned out, after countless hours effort, that the computer was just whacked. Picked one up from a friend at a junkyard for $40 and problem solved. But, it was a parts store employee who tipped me to what that computer was controlling! Talk to them guys... they may have seen this same issue yesterday. and good luck! BTW... 70*F is NOT NEAR cold! lmao
all the filters plugs and such were just replaced, when i did the tune up I mentioned above and I am not going to ask the parts store guys, you must be lucky, all I have are people that look the number up on the computer and Fetch if off the shelf Hell when I took my Distibutor in ($70 core when the Part was ony $65 ) so I took it in so I would not have to Pay, well I forgot the Oil Rod, and the Dumbass Kid did not even know what it was so I dont think they are going to be Much Help.. it very wll could be the Computer which is HOPE it is because that would be 100000000000X easy than the timming chain/belt
It is possible that you put your distributer in a tooth off, and that would be why your timing light at least reads incredible adbvance. I'd try bumping it over to TDC compression stroke on the #1 cylinder, then take your distributer acp off. Your rotor should be pointing directly to the #1 cylinder. If thats alright, then re-check your wiers, make sure they are on in the proper order. What vehicle is it, btw? As for disconnecting vacuum, yes, you do need to do that in order to set base timing. You cann't unhook the electrical connector, well, because your distributer will have no pwoer then, of course it won't run. As far as your mechanical/computer controlled advance, that can be disconnected, on fords at least, by uplugging a little 1-wire connector near the distributer, called a PIP sensor, which is what sends a tach signal to your PCM. LMK what kidna behicle/engine, mayeb I can help, mike. Also, pull all your plugs, and re-chack thm, or at least make sure they are all tight (don't over-tighten), and that all of your wires are seated correctly.
I know how to put a Distibutor in, it was not a tooth off, and if it was a tooth off that can be adjusted out by me Manually advancing the Timming like I said I did to smooth it out... Wires are in the same order the Factory Put them in, I change then ONE AT A TIME, there is no way for them to get out of order.. the Distibutor has ONE wiring harness with about 15 wires in it..... and no vacum Advance, I stated that because my experance is with older cars (something I know about) computer controled cars I know shit about... the vechile is my 1994 For Thunderbird, 3.8L N/A
Is your computer easy to get to? Junkyards around here will generally let you try the part... if it works, cool... if not, you've got 30 days to return it. Naturally they "mark" their part. As you said, much easier to try that then doing the timing belt! You won't be out anything. Still Michael, i'd call a few different places... parts stores, even the dealership parts departments around you. Pick brains dude. Just cuz you ran into one dumbass, the store in the next town might have a 3.8L Ford motor veteran.
Nah... You just don't see Ford computers go bad. Your distributor is off a tooth (or maybe 2). Under the hood, usually near the distributor, is a grey rectangular cap. The center will be recessed and the outline raised. It is plugged into a 2 wire connector and looks like it just doesn't belong. Remove the plug. That is the "spout" connector that your underhood lable designates as the plug to remove. Check the timing then. It is possible that the rollpin in the distributor is sheered as well, that is fairly common in Fords. When the rollpin sheers the distributor gear will turn on the shaft. As far as the chain... The 3.8 Fords have steel gears, not the plastic phonelic gears used to quiet the GM chains, and they usually don't just jump a tooth. When they let go, they let go. That is just not really common either. I suggest pulling the spout and setting the timing (it sounds like the timing is retarded not advanced). If it still doesn't run well, there may be an underlying issue which we can try to diagnose here.
well timming is retarded :lmfao: :lmfao: :lmfao: and the distbutor is not a Tooth off.. Sorry, it went back in, in the SAME way. (I had the alignment marked excatly) and the problems I am having are the same ones before I replaced it.. I will look again, but I dont remember seeing anything like that
Ya, thats teh same opne my 88 towncar had, with teh 5.0, the jumper. Thats alos called a PIP sensor, right? Thats what my electroncis teacher called it anyways.
ok I found that box (was not near the Distibutor but attached to a Inside Fender near the ECM test Port) No change, Timming was right (very very close only a small adjustment was needed) I am thinking is a Fuel Delivery Problem, maybe clogged ingectors Does not matter much anyway, I just need it for about 4-8 more month then it is either going to be Gutted for a V8 or Traded I just wish I knew WTF the problem is I dont think it is Timming at all, I think where I have it now is Where is should be (it is where is was when I took the old on off).. I know It is not releated to me Replacing the Distibutor because I was having these problems long before I replaced it. I thought the Distibutor (because os the Bolt) was causing the problem which is why I replaced it,
I dont remember, so that probally means i need a new one :lmfao: While I am asking.. Is there any of the "over the counter" fuel Ingector Cleaners that Work??? My Uncle Swears by STP, my Dad Swears by Kleen , I dont know if any of them do anything.... what do you think?
i have'nt seen timing advance issues on a car in 15 years, aside from plug wire order, which is usually evident by misfires. to get filters clean (i suggest changing fuel filter) and carbon deposits out i use injector cleaner, and octane booster... combined with premium fuel. Get the octane up plenty high, then find a back road and floor it. You'll see the black smoke (straight carbon) from your exhaust, if you did it right. Brands don't matter, just use 2-3 bottles of STP octane boost, and a bottle or two of cleaner, with about 1/2 tank of premium fuel. Then drive hard, you'll want to get the vehicle wide open. This has always been about the first thing i've done on purchasing a used vehicle. Alot of the sluggish, hesitation, and idle problems just go away. Like dusting out cobwebs. Some folks believe a warmer plug is needed on older vehicles, i've had mixed luck with that. Not bad luck, but in some cases it made a difference, and others the difference was'nt noticable. You can tell if a warmer plug will help by the coloration on the ceramic near the electrode, as well as the condition of the electrode itself. Another "trick in a can" ... well, theres two i like. Restore ... sold in cans for 8, 6, or 4 cylinder, just add it to your oil. It works. Designed to restore compression on weak rings, etc. Marvel Mystery Oil. After the "cleaner fuel" is gone, add Marvel to both engine oil and the next new tank of gas. It works real nice. Really nice and smooth lubricant, it's awesome for knock/pings too. Will either of these help you out? Well, not likely if the plugs are fouled or the filter is shitted up. Change them parts, blow out carbon, and then try the Restore. I doubt you'll be running rough at 70*, after that. There was only one case of a motor i could'nt get running smoothly, it wasa 4.3L (i think) Chevy in an El Camino. We tried just about everything, but electronics.... and it turned out that electrical issues were the reason the car got traded in, so i suspect they had something to do with performance also.
Fill the tank up with gas (after changing your filter ) buy a quart of Marvel Mystery oil, put 1/2 in the gas tank, and when you have about 500 miles before your oil change, drop the rest in the crankcase. It is simply an amazing cleaner. Also of note, if you can find AC Delco brand concentrated "Opticlean" (which is a windshield washer cleaner) put 1/2 quart in the tank at the same time as the Marvel. It is straight methanol and will help clean the combustion chamber.
