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I really wanna start learning how to glass...but its like 35-40 degrees here in southern IN...not really glassing temps lol
correct...straight shot from alternator to battery but fused
lol....silver bullet for me man But seriously eazy what don't you get about the big three...I even showed you a whole thread on how to do...
lol....silver bullet for me man
I bet you could drive over that box and it won't even budge
Damn Ranger that is a fuking crazy thick box...I was gonna make one but its like 40 degrees where I live now. I was only gonna fleece it and then...
NO!!! NOT the distribution block to the battery. THE ALTERNATOR TO BATTERY +. This is a straight shot...fuse it. Battery to chassis. Behind the...
Well Viking it won't hurt to go overboard...also it will look cool to have some massive wires
No problem...
Ranger...don't you mean MECP instead of MCEP lol
Well said Ranger
The big three conisist of the wires from. -Alternator to battery pos -Battery neg to chassis -Engine block to chassis/battery neg There is a kit...
Viking, in your post about the passives, you said that if you blow a speaker it will show a dead short and screw up your amp...couldn't you hook...
Negative...its just the big three
Yes...replace it. So you were running two 2 channel amps Ranger??
Ahh yes you will need to fuse the wire right after the alternator. Cheapest place I know is http://www.knukonceptz.com/index.cfm
Haha...all it will cost is for the length of wire, ring terminals, and an afternoon I'd say buy about 17-20 feet of wire...On my explorer I used...
Well with either the 1000.1 or the 1500.1 you will need 0 gauge wire A bigger battery will not help much as its sole purpose is the only start...
How about all of their car audio is crap besides the head units
Ic...well thanks for the information.
