Wiring

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by Jamesr316, Oct 29, 2004.

  1. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    I just purchased the RCE-213 component set by MB. I have never hooked up comps before so bare with me.

    It side has 1 mid/1 tweet. Each crossover has for terminals that look like the following from left to right:

    (Output) | T- | T+ | W- | W+ | (Input) | T- | W- | T+ | W+ |


    the instructions (picture) that came with it doesn't really help at all. It shows to only input 2 wires at W+ and W-.... I have done that and the speaker sounds like crap. Am i wiring it correctly?


    Also was wondering about the midbass speakers themselves. Each side has a screw and a male disconnect which are obviously connected to eachother. Both sides of the speaker have this. Neither says + or - and both look to be going back to the cone. How can the speaker do this? Does it phase itself?
     
  2. ASM

    ASM Full Member

    On the woofer.... is one of the terminals bigger than the other one? If i remember correctly, the bigger one is the positve terminal; though I could be wrong.
     
  3. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    both are same size
    I have never seen anything like this.

    I know it isnt the crossover now because I hooke it up directly and it sounded real low and unclear. I will take a photo now.
     
  4. joelsbass

    joelsbass Full Member

    looks like it's set up for bi-amping... not sure what to do about the inputs... on the woofer, is one terminal red, and one black? or does one side have a red dot somewhere on it?? sometimes it's hard to find but it's normally there (red=positive)
     
  5. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    now that im looking at the picture, one of the terminals is slightly larger in width... I was using the screws anyways. As you can see in the 3rd pic, both go right to the cone.
     
  6. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    I went back to see which wire is which and I tried them switched them to see if that made a difference, nope. Still very low and crappy sounding.
     
  7. ASM

    ASM Full Member

    I believe the side with the wider terminal is the positive one. If I'm wrong someone else chime in.

    Have you tried running the mid and tweeter together and see how that sounds?
     
  8. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    Larger is Positive.

    Yes, both sound absolutely horrible. Im trying them on my home receiver now to make sure i have no loose connections anywhere (it can handle 4 ohms fine).

    I have to turn my receiever up about 50 dB to even hear anything, and it still sounds bad. The guy I got them from said they worked fine.. I do believe him but can't figure out why this sounds worse than my $50 sony coaxials running off the HU.
     
  9. Poseur

    Poseur Full Member

    Are you hooking both teh T+ and W+ terminals on the input to the same wire? I'd assume they'r eclsoe together so that you could put a "U" shaped solid piece in to "jumper" them in a way, but you could do the same with a piece of wire. Unless you actually have means to bi-amp.
     
  10. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member


    They are connected already on the x-over by a piece. This is exactly how I have it wired:

    [​IMG]

    It sounded like Ass on my HU, and sounds exactly the same off my home theater receiver that can pump out 75 watts @ 4 ohms
     
  11. sandt38

    sandt38 Full Member

    Off of your HU these speakers will not have enough juice to get moving. Also, if you are runnung these free air off your reciever at the house you will not hear much untill it is turned way up. The front wave and rear wave are cancelling each other out. You will need to seperate the waves. Try cutting a hole in a cardboard box the size of the speaker cutout and setting it in the hole, then listen to it.

    If you are doing it the same way in the car, just setting it on the floor, it will also do the same thing. When the crossover is installed and you run it free air, all you need to be listening for is that there are no high frequencies (IE cymbols) coming from the woofer cone, then listen to the tweet to be sure you don't have extention through them (a low note will cause massive tweeter breakup, you will know if that it an issue). But don't just assume that free air will sound as good as it will with the rears sealed up.

    Like I say, cut out a hole in a cardboard box to seperate the waves, then listen and let us know.
     
  12. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    when i tested them in car, it was extremely quiet. i had to turn my HU up alot to hear it...thats why i brought it in to test, i know it won't soun as good free air, but it should atleast play a bit better. You are right though, I had to turn it down to like -35dB (my receiver starts at -100 and goes down) to hear anything remotely considered output. I will put it in a box and test, though i fear it will have same outcome. I did already order an amp to power these speakers in the car.
     
  13. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    put it in the box.... my cheap coaxials sound better free-air then these do. something has to be wrong. Why would I have to turn my home receiever all the way up to get decent output?
     
  14. sandt38

    sandt38 Full Member

    K bud, fill me in... what sounds "bad" about them? Do you hear anything coming from any speaker that sounds right? Can you explain what sounds right and what sounds wrong? is the "trebel" coming from the tweeter, and the "midrange" coming from the woofer? I mean, what is the sound that is not right to your ears.

    I am not a fan of these speakers, to be honest, but they should sound better than some crappy Sony coaxials.

    have you tried bridging the inputs like ASM said? have you got a pic of the crossover network, preferably exposed (with the cover off), so I can see how they work?
     
  15. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    OK, i will try and describe how it sounds. You know when you have your cell phone in your pants pocket, and the ringer goes off and its one of those cool ringtone songs you spent $2 on, but it really doesn't matter because you can't hear it anyways... it sounds just like that. Muffled, like someone is listening to headphones a few feet away and you can hear the extra sound coming out of it. Both the mid / tweeter dont seem to be producing any type of accurate noise. The tweeter sounds like someone is swinging around a bag of metal shavings, and the mid sounds like its playing AM radio. Besides that, the volume is extremely low.

    the speakers are rated at 40-100 watts i believe, and i know my HU in my car cant give it the power it wants, but the receiver in my house should be able to..unless you just cant power car audio from home equip.

    I will get a pic later today for you.

    p.s. I also ordered a 75 x 4 @ 4 amp which is on its way, hoping that will solve it.
     
  16. smgreen20

    smgreen20 Full Member

    I didn't ake the time to look over everyones responce, so If someone else got you straightened out...Sorry. It didn' look like though.
    This is how you hook it up.
    The tweet +,- go directly to the tweet
    The mid +,- go directly to the mid....W/mine the +/- are the same size. The + is marked on the magnet structure either on the top or on the side.
    The t-/t+ and the m-/m+, it looks like this due to the way they have the Xover made to either run as a standard Xover or to Bi-amp the speakers. To hook up the input, simply put the + wire from the amp to either one of the + on the Xover. Same w/the - side. The Xover basicly bridges the two speakers togather. That's what those two "tabs" are in the -/+. It's linking the two terminals togather, like bridgeing them.
    If you want to bi-amp them, simply remove the two "tabs" and hook up T- to the tweets -,M- to the mids -, T+ to the tweets +, and M+ to the mids +. Now you're bi-amped. Hope I didn't confuse you any. Ask if you have any more Qs.
    I own a set, That's how I know this. I am running mine Bi-amped.
     
  17. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    I am hoping my problem is that it wasn;t getting enough power. My amp will be here tomorrow and I will try it again with that.

    It is a 4 x 75 watts @ 4 ohm amp... I was going to just use 2 channels, but upon deciding to take out my rear speakers, I could use the other 2 channels to biamp the speakers. Does this drive them better? Is it kind of like having a dedicated stream of energy to each driver instead of taking one stream of power and dividing it up as needed?
     
  18. Jamesr316

    Jamesr316 Full Member

    Anyone?
     
  19. AustinKP

    AustinKP Full Member

    The reasoning behind bi-amping isn't about splitting up power sources or amount of power. Bi-amping is used as a means of better tuning your speakers. Since the woofer and tweeter are using different channels of your amp, you can set gains and xovers separately, thus theoretically giving you more control of the sound, as opposed to putting all the power through the passive xover. Others probably have a better answer, but that's how I understand it.