Kicker 750.1 amp...what kind of subs/box?

I personally prefer to paint my boxes.....

Since most of my interiors or trunk carpets have been gray, I go to Walmart and buy a couple cans of "fleck stone" paint....I get the color that comes out looking like gray granite....It comes out thick and takes a while to dry, but it ends up with a texture to it.....In my house, I did this to my sub I built, but after the fleck paint was dry, I put several coats of flat black paint over it...You can also go to an auto parts store and by bedliner paint...very tough stuff....

If you carpet, it is probably best to try and use one piece...what is tricky is how you do the ends, cutting reliefs and angles so it will lay down right...corners are the worst spots

Really nice pre-made boxes are actually sprayed with industrial adhesive and then the material is sprayed on (looks like carpet, but it is sprayed on material....no seams) over the surface of the box....

Willy

 

Yeah...

Start with the box kinda centered making sure you have enough on the ends to do those....I would make your seam be in the middle of the bottom of the box...Then go slow towards the back or front (your choice) make sure you spray the adheasive even and ample...when you get to the first edge, just try to keep it as tight as possible (do not spray any on the ends yet, you will address that later)....If you have some type of roller, that would work well, just try to make sure you get adhesion to all of the surfaces. Work your way around slowly and carefully keeping it as tight and neat as possible....Dont worry about cutting the holes for the driver or port yet...When you get around to the starting seam, take the end beyond the beginning slightly...Maybe have someone help you to hold it and pull it tight while you press firmly up to the beginning piece (you should be able to feel it underneath.) When you get it all stuck in place, take a sharp razor knife and trim the excess by following the initial piece....

Now when you do the ends, you will need to try to get the pieces cut before gluing....I would try to make the four side pieces meet in the middle of the end like an X....Carefully cut the carpet from the outer loose end towards the box at each corner...This will leave you with 4 rectangles of loose carpet...
Take the top flap and fold it down towards the bottom (no glue yet)...Have someone hold it tight...Then take the front or rear flap and fold it over the end laying over the first piece....You need to hold both pieces in place tight and then one of you (or a third person) take a straight edge and lay it diagonally across the two pieces of carpet...With a SHARP razor knife, cut along the straight edge through both pieces of carpet at the same time...Then let go of the two pieces...You should be able to remove the cut pieces and then if you lay those flaps back down, they should meet with a perfectly cut 45 degree angle to each other....Do each flap the same way, then you will have 4 flaps that are now triangles that should perfectly match with each other...Once you get them cut and check it, you should be able to apply adhesive and glue the flaps down, then repeat that on the other end..

You could cut one flap at a time on the 45 degree angle and that will work...The idea behind cutting both pieces at the same time is assuring the meet exactly even with variations of the blade cutting (since the two edges are cut together)

Then you can carefully cut the hole for the driver and the port...Then only thing is where you cut for the port, the edges are free to be caught and come loose over time cause there is nothing holding them down...The driver will cover the edge of the round hole..

Willy

1 Inch screws should work fine...Use a course thread deck screw or a wood screw...Dont use fine thread drywall screws....You want them to bite in and hold....

 

One other word of caution....

Put the driver in place and mark each hole location....Remove speaker, then pre drill...

When you set the driver and and screw it down.....Be very carefull when putting the screws in.....If you use a cordless drill (what I would do) you have to watch for a couple things....it is VERY EASY for the drill to slip and go down with the bit going right through the driver or the driver surround...Tightening by hand can be just as deadly...In both situations you are applying pressure to the tool...it slips and you have a hole in the speaker.

Here is what I would do (seriously)....Get a scrap piece of plywood and lay it across the speaker, leaving only one screw head at a time visible...Have someone hold it in place (keeping their hands out of the way) Use a drill with only enough pressure to keep the bit in the screw (make sure it is a good bit or it could round out the screw head) put the drill in slow speed and drive the screw just to the point where it gets snug....stop....get a good screwdriver and final tighten by hand...Put the first screw in, then do the one that is exactly opposite of the first...after that... any order you want....Drilling with the drill in high speed can be easier to overdrive the screw and strip it and it can jump out of the screw easier....stay slow...it is more controlled...

Willy

 

I wouldn't recommend just a screw as it can strip and then have problems...drill a hole and use a nut and a bolt and then tighten that sucker down.

And a Helmholtz Resonator is just another cool name for a ported box...you can tell your friends that you built a Helmholtz Resonator for your sub to sound cool lol

 

DO NOT GROUND YOUR AMP AT THE BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!!!



Kepp the ground as short as reasonable!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Dont know who said that, and aint gunna look back and see who did.........but they need a lesson in electrical systems..........

 

The body and frame is more than sufficient for grounding.

I'm gonna try to run a ground wire from the alternator mount bolt to the body...the alternators case is the actual ground when the engine is running...well thats what the mods and smart people over at the12volt always say.

But I don't think there can be too much grounding...I'm going all out lol

 

ok.did a system voltage check and got some numbers.tell me if they are bad or good.

sub amp---25.3volts peak.how many watts would that be?
im sure i can get more because the sub amp gets its input from the front channel inputs from my 4 channel amp (has an internal lowpass out).but i have it bridged to 2 channels,so i have one rca one each input. 1 on the front 1 on the rear.

so when i hooked both jacks to the front the bass got atleast 1 and half times louder.so i'm out to get some y-jacks for the inputs.


so for now how much power does 25.3 volts equal?

 

Depends on what impedance...you can run a sine way through your system and get check the voltage...but I dunno what the impedance rise of your box is

 

final impedance of the sub is 2 ohm. the meter showed 2.8.
ran a 50hz sine wave and got the 25.3volts.peak gain set at just under halfway.sub vol at 1/4.radio at 30.52 is max vol.

any of that help. oh and voltage from the batt was 13.68volts=+/- .5 volts.at almost half vol.

on music my voltage dropped to 12.3volts.it was bass music.on regular music it was like 12.8 or so.lowest reading.

 

carpet job looks very nice....

Sorry...My freakin computer is down at home, so I had none all weekend...

Willy

 

ok so i got the splitters for the 4 ch amp and it helped the bass ALOT.measured the voltage and it peaked at 39.3volts this time with the 50hz sine wave.

i cant believe the diffrence connecting both inputs made.

 

Viking here is a story for you

Ok well on my way home today I decided to stop by the pawn shop that is about 2 minutes away from my house...just wanted to stop by and look around and see if they got anything new...saw some new subs they bought...a box with four Diamond Audio 10's and some lightning audio subs.

But then here is a best part of my day....I went over to the amp rack and was looking around...they had quite a collection...a lotta old stuff and some new...I found an Alpine MRV-401 4 channel I may buy for my highs...they gaurantee that everything works...but then I found two red anodized amps underneath another crappy amp...to my surprise they were both OLD SCHOOL ORION 225HCCA amps...with the "MADE IN THE USA" printed on the sides...I was like damn...these are nice. But thing is that they are both selling for 250 bucks...I may go back and try to trade something or try to haggle the price down to 200.

But Viking, these amps are quite a site when seen in person...I really really wanna buy one and see what it can do

 

If you can get them, GET THEM!

Thye will kick some ass. But be forewarned, they are a high performance amp, and should be treated as such. i always compared them to a Drag car engine...they can take a short term hard abuse, and even be run pretty hard for a long time, but they will explode if not treated properly! These amps will draw what they want and put out all they can till death. The ONLY protection they have is low voltage and MAJOR overvoltage, thye will NOT shut down due to overtemp, shorted speaker leads (should be fused anyway) , blown speakers, or any other reason, they will run as hard as they can till the go BOOM and smoke up your interior....And thats the way an amp should be made!!!!!