Never ASSume a fuse is good

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by Promodmerc, Jun 6, 2011.

  1. Promodmerc

    Promodmerc Full Member

    Here is my story for the day.

    On the way to work this morning I lost all sound. I figure the use at the battery blew. I get to work pop the hood and the fuse is not blown. I say a few choise words and head on in.

    At morning break I borrow a multi function meter from the mainenance guy. I check the power turn on wire and get good voltage. I then check the power a the distribution block and have none. I then procede to the fuse at the batter. I unscrew the caps and I have voltage before the fuse but not after. I go to screw the caps back on and the power wire pulls out after the fuse. I figure problem solved.

    At lunch I borow an allen wrench, tighten down the power wire still nothing :mad: I go back and borrow the multifunction meter again and start checking. Still no power at the distribution block. I check to make sure all the wires are tight in the block and the power wire pulls out. Problem solved right? Wrong.

    Again I check the fuse at the battery 12.5V before the fuse 12.5V after the fuse. A whole lot more choice words follow. I then pull the fuse and hold the post fuse connection to the battery and viola! I have sound. Put the fuse back in no sound. Pull the fuse hold the connector to the battery and have sound.

    I then decide to check the resistance of the fuse (AGU since I didn't mention earlier) and it is showing about 1/2 ohm resitance. If it was good it should have zero resistance or very little.

    Now why the hell it showed 12.5V after the fuse at one point is a mystery. I'm assuming the the solder inside one of the caps is bad and was just in the right possition to allow voltage through.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2011
  2. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    i hate when that happens... it's always something stupid simple.
     
  3. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    I term that as an High impedance fuse. for alck of better terms...yes this does happen. Shows voltage under no load, put a load on it and the maperage kills the connection...lesson learned. LOL! Ya those can be a pain in th4 butt!
     
  4. Promodmerc

    Promodmerc Full Member

    Yea Viking, I need to do something about that AGU fuse. What fuse type would you recommend? I'm running one Kicker DX400.4 and one Kicker KX250.2 amps.

    I also have an AGU fuse in my Cougar Running a Kicker ZX200.2, ZX250.2 and DX500.1. I might as well change them both at the same time.
     
  5. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Use an ANL type fuse/holder.....the are bullet proof as far as longevity and reliability.
     
  6. Promodmerc

    Promodmerc Full Member

    So would I need to use a ring or spade terminal on the power supply wire where it goes into the fuse holder?
     
  7. mmwwjr

    mmwwjr Full Member

    Depends on the type of fuse holder. Some require ring terminals some are just set screw style. But if yours requires an end on it then go with the ring terminal.
     
  8. Promodmerc

    Promodmerc Full Member

  9. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    one additional note here...Make sure to check your battery voltage under system load. Low voltages are indicated by fuses that have become...high impedance. Not always, but sometimes.