hey, viking, i'm thinking about trying to solder those LEDS light emitting diodes, do you think that's wise to crack the seal on all the screws on the transistors to take out the circuitboard if they haven't been touched before? I need an answer quickly because i have my soldering gun and solder ready lol.
just pay attention to what youare doing!!!! It wont hurt anything...just be sure to reinstall everything exactly as it was taken apart, it aint that hard. And be sure to solder properly and dont leave any solder "blobs" or solder bridges aross any of the traces
Sup? my interior lights stay on sometimes when i turn off the car and take the keys out. They are on now and there is quite a few of them maybe 6 or 8. It has been doing this intermitantly for about a month now. When it happens i can see in my dash it is saying a door is open while i'm driving. I've looked for the door switches but i can't see them, i think they are behind or part of the door hinges. This car has all kinds of relays too, i hear them clicking all the time when i start the car or turn off the car then open the door.
they could be sticking,but i think you know that. um.....no little rubber boot thingy at the bottom of the door?
That's what is weird about it, how can the switch be sticking when all the doors are closed. Now my horn is not working sometimes and the passenger door window doesn't work sometimes. Some funky **** going on lol. I don't see any door switches they must be behind or part of something. Also when you lift the door handle the interior lights used to come on, now they only come on when you open the door and sometimes stay on.
Take some WD-40, or some other silicone type spray, and spray it on all 4 latches. The door switches are in the latch that's in the door. Little ball that get depressed that tends to stick. A scanner will tell you which door, but it is easier to spray each mechanism down. Then, open and shut each door a minimum of 10-15 times. You know you got it when the door ajar light quits staying on. Horn and windows most likely a whole nuther deal.
well, it will be pretty frigin heavy which is a good thing lol, would take two people to take the whole thing. I wonder if i can just arc weld a tack on each corner of the amp to the metal plate. I can do that directly from the battery to the amp like in the picture with no fuses yes?
don't do any welding to the amp....especially stick or mig. if you really wanna weld it than have it GTAW'ed
Can i wire the amp directly to the battery with no fuse like in the picture? it's only a short piece of wire.
with an exrtemely short run of wire, you wont need the fuses...on the power wire...although they never hurt. And I was not reffering to welding the amp itself!!!!!!!!!! Your idea could work fine electro!
Sweet, thanks. Sorry one more question about the fuses. Not that i will do this but just wondering how this works. If i put say an 80 amp fuse on the power wire and i have put two 30 amp fuses in the amp and i was drawing more than 80 amps, then the fuses in the amp would blow first or are the 30 amp internals protecting the amps circuitry and would take a lot more to blow them. lol does this make sense? I'm trying to ask if the internal fuses are for the overall current draw like the fuse on the power wire is or do they work differently.
OK!! lol getting down to the nitty gritty, exact measurements. So what kind of steel should i use and how much do you think someone would charge me to weld this up with materials. I was thinking to go with wood, but i'm liking this more.
I don't know which metal is best for this, i want it to look good, shiny if possible but strong too. Can the square holes be cut nicely?