Help

[fb4076]

Ok, I am having trouble attaching the amp to the HU. I can not figure out how to go about getting the stock HU out so that I can attach all the wires. I was wondering if you all had any suggestions.... I do not have another one I am putting in... just can not figure out how to access the connections on the back

[forbidden]

What vehicle is this for? What is the amp you have and does it have a built in LOC or do you have a separate one?

As requested Sandt38, I'll try to post here a little more often. Glad to help.

[fb4076]

It is going into an '02 Mercury Mountaineer. The amp is an MA Audio HK-1998. Right now I can not figure out how to access the back, I think we may have to take apart a bit of the dash, but I really do not want to do that.

[sandt38]

You will need special tools to remove the HU. On the front of the HU you will see some holes. The special tool inserts into the holes to release the unit. They can be found at Wal-Mart, or any auto parts store.

[geolemon]

I believe many of those Fords, you can bend up some large paperclips, in absense of having the "proper tool for the job".

Essentially, the paperclips push into the holes... where they'll press against some spring-loaded clips... the spring loaded clips are what are holding the head unit into the dashboard.

That being said, I still haven't worked on a car yet, that didn't require my at least popping the center console's trim panel off the face of the dashboard to remove the head unit. Usually it's not much of a challenge... look closely for screws, they are usually hidden out of sight from a normal seating position... so looking up from the floor can help. Pull out the ashtray drawer or change compartment or whatever, screws can be hidden many places. When they are out, the trim panel likely has a few pressure clips as well that'll hold it in place, so gently pry on the panel to pop it off.

And do try to adopt the philosophy that "cutting factory wiring is a sin".

Someday, you may have cause to restore what you've done... believe me, don't hack it up.

[forbidden]

If you do not have the Ford or Blaupunkt radio removal tools then we can make some for you. These tools look like the letter U. Take a length of straight coat hanger and bend it into this U shape. Slowly insert each key into the appropraite hole on each side of the factory deck. If anything you want to make sure that the key goes straight in. ONce it is in, gently apply some outwards pressure on the key to push the hidden spring clip in against the headunit. Do the same to the other side at the same time. This should allow the factory head to slip out of the dash. You may have to pull gently on the cd slot or tape slot to remove the headunit as the keys you made do not have the little grips on them that the factory tools have. Good luck with it. For radio wiring info have a look at this site. www.installdr.com

Rob @ Forbidden

[delvryboy]

or, if using a LOC and installing the amp in the trunk...

i just nab one of the speaker wires in the back and install the LOC in the trunk. if your only using a sub amp, you only need to grab one side

[fb4076]

ok, got the head unit out, the plastic clip-on piece popped right off, and the head unit had two screws holding it in. Got it out, it didn't have the RCA's (as expected) so I went and bought the box to get RCA jacks... now I can't figure out how to wire that box in... and I can not find a wiring diagram for my car so that I can just look up on the internet and see where to hook them up (it was that simple on one of my friends cars...) any ideas on that?


Oh yeah.... LOC?

[geolemon]

Line Output Converter.

My guess is that's the "box" you are talking about.
I've never, ever had luck with them.

I've found they'd often limit the output of the system, even with the gains maxed.

I've often had luck in these situations simply hard-wiring the speaker outputs straight into unattenuated RCA barrels. Feed the speaker output straight into the low level inputs of the amp.

"attempt at your own risk" however, this certainly isn't how it is designed.. and it's very possible that there could be a problem resulting, either from the HU or the amp. So be careful.

David Navone (www.davidnavone.com) sells LOC's that are supposed to be high quality. I've never tried them.
The only ones I've used that I have had success with are PAC's OEM-1 (not the OEM-2, which I haven't used).
It also provides a remote wire, to turn the amps on by.. which most LOC's don't, so that's nice.

[fb4076]

alright, well... I just bought the cheaper kind (Stinger) I just will let that be until I get everything hooked up, then I can upgrade once I get more funds. I am not really prepared to do the wiring into the CD player, I actually think I will just have the ford dealer wire the LOC in... I called, and they will do it for approx. $15